The original neutral switch on my bike had failed internally. The switch tip did not close the circuit and light up the neutral light in the dash, additionally the previous owner had also tried to stem the oil leaking through the switch body by slathering the switch in RTV. I replaced the switch with a new one and found that the green dash light also failed to come on while the bike was in neutral. The switch tested fine with a multimeter, and shorting the two wires near the battery also triggered the neutral light. I put Prussian Blue on the switch tip and cycled the gearbox through neutral. When I pulled the switch I could see that the Prussian Blue had been flattened indicating the switch tip was touching the ramp, but obviously not being depressed enough to make an electrical connection. I decided to machine the switch body slightly in order to place the switch closer to the ramp and depress the switch tip by a greater amount. This seemed to work and now the switch recognizes neutral each time. The switch is installed using the correct copper washer. This is the switch I bought: For anyone looking at a similar fix, the pictures below show the amount of material I removed to get the switch to work. This is the new switch, before machining... This is the switch after machining, not a great deal of material was removed. Apologies for not having specific measurements, I hope anyone else needing to do this workaround can use these two pictures as a guide.
