For Sale 55mm Socket

Discussion in 'Parts, Accessories & Clothing For Sale' started by Nelson, Nov 11, 2021.

  1. £20 delivered
    B64F3551-5EC6-4531-8BC5-1F0B07ACC129.jpeg
     
  2. Bump £15 delivered
     
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  3. Did you sell this bud? What is it, 1/2” drive?
     
  4. hi,
    Still available. 3/4 drive.
     
  5. Ok cheers, I want one with a 1/2” drive so will leave it
     
  6. Don’t think you’ll find one. You’ll need an adapter
     
  7. Just get an adapter
     
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  8. I’d stick with 3/4 drive for a 55mm socket.
     
  9. So would I, but if he really wants 1/2, you can can just get an adapter.
     
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  10. Cool, it’s a free world. Well, it was 2 years ago.

    Not sure Isambard Kingdom Brunel would be with you on the half inch drive fuckery.
     
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  11. Strong opinions flying about today considering I just didn’t want to buy the guys socket.

    Must be January, the people are bored
     
  12. Having had to use a 36" breaker bar and a very fat mate to remove a few rear wheels, I'd always go 3/4 drive on a nut/socket this large.
    Anyhoo....Your shout brah...:cool:
     
  13. TBH I have no need of this socket, just want to give it a home. :):upyeah:
     
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  14. 1/2” drive on a 55mm socket isn’t going to last long.
     
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  15. Why wouldn’t you torque it to the correct torque? What’s your rationale for that?
    “I’m at the track so it doesn’t matter if my wheel is loose”?
     
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  16. How much is the kettle?
     
  17. Yes exactly, how did you know?

    Or maybe the rationale is that the workshop manual figure is set for a road bike where that wheel could be on there for 4000 road miles and the nut not checked that whole time until the tyre is changed, so it’s got to be pretty tight.

    My wheel on the other hand will do a maximum of about twenty laps before it’s removed and the tyre changed. Also considering the fact the axel nut is castellated with a metal pin through it, I’d be quite happy to say that in this instance that nut doesn’t need to be quite that tight.

    Just my opinion of course, everyone’s entitled to theirs
     
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  18. Dear oh dear, Simon. It seems we need to take you for a sit down with the engineering thought police... :laughing:

    Seriously though, you may have a point. I'm not sure. I've noticed fashion, fads and theories sweep through the paddock very quickly. Maybe slack wheel nuts is the latest. Your the 2nd person I've encountered in 24 hours to say rear wheel full torque settings for track use aren't necessary.

    Up to now I've always torqued my rear wheel back on to 230nm and put the fiddly, springy lock nut thing back on.
     
  19. I just see it like this, engineering designs solutions according to the specified use and factor of safety required for the part in question. I use that wheel nut in different conditions to the ones the factory had to allow for in designing it and personally I'm more concerned about the repeated stress on the nut and axle thread of torquing it up to 240nm two or three times per day, than I am of the potential for it to work loose over extended use.

    Its not because i'm too lazy or tired to do it up properly, its not that slack wheel nuts are fine. I also have a few years beind me as a mechanical engineer in the aerospace industry so I'm not a complete moron, you'd hope.
    I just choose a lower torque value and reduced the stress on the components knowing i'll be inspecting it regularly.
     
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