Since I bought my 748 it has always had a poor front brake, as in they stopped you but the titax span adjuster is all the way around on number 5 and the lever still nearly comes back to the bar. So I changed the fluid soon after I got it home and still no good. Next step was to fit new pads and bleed the system again. After letting the pads bed in they are better but still not up to scratch. From high speed (anything above 50mph) the first initial pull of the lever they have a good bite and feel but when it comes to a slow corner or stopping in slow traffic sometimes it feels ok but go to pull it again and the lever goes almost right to the bar. I have bled the system over and over again so I’m confident that there is no air there so I’m thinking it must be the master cylinder? Anyone else experienced this, and if it is the master cylinder would anyone recommend this? Accossato AG023-RST 19x18 Radial Master Cylinder Front Brake Pump Lightnes Lever | eBay
Heyup, Here's a few answers I go when I asked a similar question..think the pics are jumbled up! http://ducatiforum.co.uk/f41/brake-upgrade-1213/
You say you've bled the system but did you start at the m/cylinder or just bleed straight through the calipers? I had a similar problem on my 748 a few years ago and it was a tiny air bubble at the m/cylinder which was not passing through when the system was bled at the calipers.
Thanks for the info nelson there is some useful stuff there,but I don’t think I’m ready to splash out on some new callipers just yet. Hughdg, iv only bled them from the callipers as there is nobleed nipple on the master cylinder.
Pull the brake leaver back and tie wrap it to the handle bar over night. This will allow the are (if any) to move up in to the reservoir.
Jay26 Are you certain you don't have a bleed nipple for your m/c? I'm not familiar with the 748, but on my 749 there is a bleed nipple inside the m/c reservoir
I went over the callipersthe other day when I fitted the new pads, all the pistons are nice and free. I think the bleed nipple on the master cylinder must havebeen fitted to the latter bikes as mine definitely does not have one. I’ve just cable tied the lever back so I will check tomorrowfor any improvement, if not I think it is going to have to be a new mastercylinder.
On most bikes with clip-on type bars, the highest point in the system is the banjo bolt on the end of the master cylinder, and however much fluid you bleed through the caliper bleed nipples you can't get the last bit of air from the top. So wrap the banjo and brake line end with rag/paper to protect your paintwork, and gently loosen the banjo bolt, use your third hand / knee / assistant to squeeze the lever to pump some fluid through and watch all the little air bubbles escape. Nip it back down check and repeat if necessary. Usually does the trick when all else fails.
As 98SPS says, plenty of rag and crack the banjo bolt on the hose, pull in and hold the lever then tighten the banjo back up and release the lever. Repeat a few times and fingers crossed all will be well. It does help if you can get someone to give you a hand but it can be done on your own with a bit of patience and care. My 748 is my02 but have checked on my my97 916 and there is no bleed nippple so guess yours is the same.
Ok I bleed it from the banjo bolt it has improved itslightly so I’ll try it for a bit and see how I get on with it. Thanks for all your help.
Jay, I think the master cylinders fitted from 1999 are the ones fitted with a bleed nipple and on the newer ones it is located directly above the banjo bolt. One thing you may need to try (if not done already) is make sure the bike is on a paddock stand (not the side stand) and steering fully to the right so the master cylinder is as upright as you can get it. If you have had some success loosening the banjo did you rebleed on both callipers afterwards? Also don't hold back on the quantity of fluid you pump through and make sure the bleed nipple is properly nipped up before releasing the lever. Which MY is your bike BTW?
You don't seem to mention that the brake feels spongy although you keep bleeding the system. You mention that the lever comes back almost as far as the bar when on no5 adjuster. There is a small adjusting screw in the inside of the Knuckle of the lever, set your adjuster to no 3 then adjust the small screw until you have the lever where you want it and then you should have adjustment both ways. Steve.
Are talking about the adjuster that pushes the MC piston in? If so be very, very flippin' careful not to over adjust that!
Ok I think I have found the problem. have adjusted the screwon the lever so that it is pushing the plunger in by about 3mm without thelever being pulled, I have lifted the front wheel and checked to see if thewheel still turns freely which it does. Is this ok or will it cause any damaged to seals with thissmall amount of pressure on the MC? because the further I wind the adjuster inthe better the lever becomes. In an ideal world the lever is at its best if theadjuster is wound all the way in (plunger is in by about 6/7mm). Even at thisadjustment the wheel still turns freely and the lever feels ace.
YIKES! It's not about whether it's free now, it's whether it remains free when things warm up! If the internal part of the MC is adjusted in too far past the return to the reservoir when the system/fluid warms up it well have no where to go other than squeeze the pistons together on yr disc and you will be off! To check, remove one of yr calipers and gently squeeze the brake lever until a piston starts to move. Then lever/push the piston back and see if the fluid level rises in the reservoir. Seriously - check before you ride it.
Thanks Nelson that sounds like good advice, I didn’t think of it that way. I’ll check tomorrow after work I won’t be ridding it until I know its sorted. ill wind the adjuster in until the fluid stops returning to the pot then back it off slightly that way I should be able to get it as good as the system will allow, if that make sense.
Do a Google search on "motorbike front brake lock" or "Ducati front brake lock" there's loads on the topic, should give you an idea...
Finally got around to checking the brakes today and I found that I can screw the adjuster almost all the way in before the fluid can’t getback to the pot. So I’ve backed it off from this point and the lever feels much better. I’m putting it down to the after market levers.
