748 rear ride height

-Stage One- ​

This will improve the steering of the bike a lot simply because the bikes come with very little preload and therefore sits low in the back.
1. Set the sag at 35mm front and 30mm rear
A few notable points:
The stock Ohlins shock spring is set up for a 165lb rider with gear. Consult the Ohlins spring chart for the correct spring application for you.
The stock Showa Biposto shock has a stiffer spring which works better for American sized riders.
The fork springs will be anywhere from .95kg-1.05kg depending on what year your bike is. The nice thing about this is that the forks are set up for aggressive riding and work great for heavier riders, the down side is that they are a bit harsh for the lighter riders. Regardless you should be able to get the correct sag numbers out of the stock fork springs.

-Stage Two- ​

This is the same set up I ran on my 998R for the 2002 race season. It works very well considering it does not require the magnesium arm and a set of triples. Every person we have done this for has raved about how their bike steers. If you ride twisty roads, do track days or race you should be outside putting these numbers in your bike right now.
1. Push the forks up through the triple clamps until the 4 th line is even with the top of the triple between the fork tubes (fig 1).

Fig. 1
2. Raise the ride height in the rear, this is where it gets fun. Due to the fact that the single side swingarm is on an eccentric, the ride height and wheelbase change when you adjust the chain. The next problem is that you can not measure ride height by the ride height adjuster. Ducati has a tool that plugs into the frame and extends back over the axel to accurately measure ride height, but not many people own one…including us. We made our own, so of course our numbers do not translate. What's the solution you ask? Well we cheated. We are measuring to a fixed point on the subframe, while not entirely accurate due to the fact the subframe flexes, swivels when loose, etc it is the best solution we could come up with aside from selling everyone a Ducati ride height tool. If you follow the steps below you will be 98% accurate when setting ride height.
• Set the eccentric at 6:00 (fig 2). You will never end up at exactly the 6:00 posistion with the chain adjusted, but you need to baseline it here so you are aware of where it ends up when the chain is adjusted. If, when the chain is adjusted it is ouside the effective range you may run into an issue of not being able to get enough ride height or you may extend the tie rod too far and run the risk of it coming apart. When the chain is adjusted, the effective range is between 4:00-6:30, I think 5:30 is preferable. If your eccentric is outside of this range with the chain adjusted you will need to shorten/lengthen your chain. Set your chain tension before going on to the next step.
Once you have set your chain tension and the eccentric is in the correct range you will be ready too set your ride height. No matter where it ends up in the range you will use the same ride height numbers. But keep in mind if you change sprockets, adjust your chain or look at it with bad intentions you will need to set you ride height again.

Fig. 2
• Set the bike up on jack stands. I have found putting them under the footpegs or footpeg brackets works best.
• Make sure the subframe bolts are tight (most are not). Make sure the subframe is “pushed” all the way down in it's possible arc (when the bolts are loose)
• With the tire unloaded measure from the top of the sprocket carrier nut to the center of the upper exhaust mounting bolt ( the figure 8 piece) (fig 3) the measurement should be 604mm. Remember this is not entirely accurate because of the obvious variables, but without the tool this is as good as it gets.

Fig. 3
• Your ride height is most likely too low. If it is, loosen the ride height adjuster jam nuts (one is reverse thread) and lengthen the tie rod until you get 604mm. If you can not get the jam nuts loose or are afraid of stripping them (which happens more often that not) you can use a little heat, or take the tie rod out, loosen it on the bench then pack it full of Anti Sneeze.

-Stage Three- ​

1. Buy A Magnesium arm and a set of triple clamps with 27mm of offset. About $3000 on a good day.



http://web.archive.org/web/20041119193410/www.section8superbike.com/748-916-996-998suspension.htm

 

what do you want to do with the bike? If its for the track the 235-245 would be good, if its on the road then i would be lower

 

I've got the tool should anyone on here be a tool maker and want to get a batch made up to sell to members. I run the long swingarm but 240 +/- 5mm is good on track, with 185 from the bottom of fork seal to bottom of lower yoke with the head in it's steepest setting get's it turning a bit quicker.
My Dad also used to be a technical draughtsman so if he's in a good mood could probably do an engineering drawing for tool if required. But TBH, he swears more at the computer than uses it properly now so i might just do it myself with his help. I've been meaning to get some made up for years but never been on a forum to even think of getting a batch sale done which i'm told is what most engineering firms would want to do rather than a one off.

 

i wouldnt consider the 23.5 rake setting unless you are fitting offset yokes 30 27 or even 25, unless you already know the std offset is 36, by going to the 23.5 offsdet you lose around 6 mm of trail.................so for example fitting 30mm offset yokes you would then regain the lost trail or on the 24.5 setting you would gain a further 6mm of trail............

keeping the trail is far more important than pandering to the bull that is "race" setting


trail is front end feel!!

 

If you're close to Birmingham you can come take a look. But i'll do a drawing and include all the important measurements as i've not got a scanner. Probably be tomorrow though as it's in a mate garage miles away.

 

Nice pic. Definitely recognise the shape. I've got tomorrow off work so can check it all and let you know the dimentions i have.
165 seems a bit low though. A few years ago an ex bsb ducati mechanic of the time give me base measurements of 185 from yoke with about 25-30mm static sag on the front, 245mm to bottom of tool with 10mm static sag on the rear for good base track settings. I've never had the front lower than 185 or the rear higher than 245 to the bottom mark. And that's just using it on nice smooth tracks. Might make it a bit lively on our pot hole covered roads. If so just start lowering the rear until your happy and make a note of everything as it is before you start so you can always go back if changes feel crap.

 

Note book and pencil...most important thing for changing suspension. Notes notes notes

 

Ohlins are so much better too, being 2 clicks change can easily be too much, where some of the showa etc units take 4 or 5 before its noticeable at all

If you fancy learning rather than just paying someone, there are loads of google artciles which are 'readable' and start from standard settings and work from there. There are some great vids of a blonde english guy in the states who explains what is what and stuff like tyre wear indicating what the suspension is doing, depending how far into it you want to go

or...spend £50 with a specialst for a base setting and get them to tell you what they are doing. Depending where you are, theres loads of places of high quality in and out of dealers; Motorapido on the south coast, Lougi Bristol way, JHP Coventy, Cornerspeed Nottingham then there are trackday companies like 100% suspension. The world is your oyster

 

Hi well this is my ride height tool. The measurement from the centre of the top frame mount point, to the line on the top of tool is 455mm. From the centre of the bottom mount point to same line on top of tool is 465mm. The bar extending out to take measurement from is 30mm wide. The mark didn't show up to well with the camera so i put a scrach on the bottom edge.