I've been reading other forum threads about rear wheel nut removal on the 748. I take it it's a bit of a s**t!!!
Buy a windy gun....its the future. Or as someone else posted here on another thread....go to a tyre place, get them to rattle it loose, then nip it up for a short trip home. None of the 6ft breaker bar stuff with that method.....
Personally I use a 3 foot breaker bar with a trolley jack handle over the end of that, right hand on the front brake left hand push away, piece of pi$$...
I use a 3/4in breaker bar with a 46mm socket with a foot on the rear brake and bingo! Who needs a rattle gun?
Same here, never had a problem, I always torque to correct setting. I think most problems arise from tire fitters using the air wrench and over tighten it. Steve
To me that makes a lot of sense as I always take the wheel to the fitter, hence probably why I've not suffered with this particular problem
I agree with the torque wrench for tightening the nut up, but I thought the thread was about removal of a stubborn nut? I spend the majority of my time at work in the nuclear and petrochemical industry dealing with bolt tensioning and torqueing both manually and hydraulically and would fully agree with the importance of the correct torque, even down to the various co-efficient of friction for the different greases used and wether the nut spot face is lubricated or not. And when that fails brute strength and ignorance usually wins in the end..... :wink:
Anth, the wording of the original post (I take it it's a bit of a s**t!!! ) leads me to believe that he hasn't attempted removal of the nut hence my reply, to my experience I haven't had a problem because I fit my own tires and torque it up correctly. He might or may not have a problem. Steve.
Yeah he may be fretting over nothing, if it's been put on properly then there won't be any problem with streched threads or galling.
Thanks for all the input there guys!! Having prepared myself with all the necassary gubbins, turns out that I could have undone the bloody thing with my teeth if I would have tried!! Only problem I had was trying to find a local garage with a 46mm socket.....even my local ex 'Snap On' rep had everything but. Ended up using a 1 7/8 socket. Not perfect but did the job
I just took the rear wheel off my 748r it took a 46mm 3/4 socket with a 24" bar with a 4 foot scaffold bar to undo!! And I agree finding a socket in a shop is hard work although my local car shop got me one for next day and in fact laser tools make quite a few Ducati specific tools at good prices too!
Back to my original statement then eh.....for the safe removal of stubborn wheel nuts! :wink: Swinging about on half baked home made concoctions is just asking for busted knuckles, or even worse......damaged paint work when it falls off. Who needs popeye!!!
Tie the missus to the breaker bar, slap her arse followed by the words " you're next fatty!" Soon comes off! :biggrin:
You want something like this, an electric impact wrench: Clarke CEW1000# I've got one that works off 12v, so can easily be hooked up to the bike battery; cost me £20 and works a treat.
Same problem getting the rear wheel and sprocket off my 998 last week, ended up lashing out on a Snap-on CTU6850 battery nut gun. Tightening torque 542Nm and breakaway torque 837Nm. Does the job nicely. Yes it cost a bit but as tools go it's very sexy.
I would imagine the snap on one will be the dogs bollocks, but I've used a 12v one in the past and it was surprisingly good....I never did anything as big as a single sided wheel nut tho. It was an RAC one for car wheel nuts from argos or somewhere, I had pretty much discarded the idea when my mate lent me it, but thats what lead me to buy one for my air compressor....I should have done it years ago. Anth
