749 749r ...would You Buy It?

Discussion in '749 / 999' started by yellowducmaniac, Jun 7, 2015.

  1. Just spotted a 749R on ebay ,wish I knew how to post the link but its easy enough to find,it looks pretty sweet until you get to the bit where it says there's no serial number on the top yoke...if I was looking for one of these the number plaque would be crucial, am I being silly or is it a valid point ?
     
  2. has it got the original unused tyres
     
  3. The number doesn't really matter unless you're a collector. They weren't made in the order the plaque number might indicate.
     
  4. Late frame and swing arm, but early faring's?
     
  5. Agree...Looking closer it also has an aftermarket seat unit, probably CRC or the like, nothing wrong with being non standard and I don't want to appear overtly anal, but again if I was buying a 749R it would need to be OE perfect.
     
  6. That's the way the 2004 749R came out.

    The tail fairing is original, seat has a suede cover.
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  7. The tail fairing is original, seat has a suede cover.[/QUOTE]

    oops ...I need to put my glasses on :oops:
     
  8. My R has the "full race kit" engine and makes 138bhp at the rear wheel. The one in the advert must be a bit sick if it has only 125 at the wheel.
    Otherwise...I like that bike as I am not bothered about plaques or that shit, just as long as it is a nice bike to ride and has been looked after.
    It's been advertised a number of times over the last few months.
     
  9. ?????
     
  10. The one in the OP.
     
  11. 138hp my arse.........unless its on a service schedule of every 500km because of the revs...

    when the dyno stops the bullshit starts...
     
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    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. Special calibrated JHP dyno! How could I possibly question the great man himself??
    Anyway...
     
  13. To answer the OP, it depends upon what you want and how much you are prepared to pay.
     
  14. Even my old 749r ex bss bike dint make that power!
    20130603_164616.jpg
     
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  15. I'm gonna sue the guy I bought it off as he must have doctored the print out!
    It doesn't matter, what matters is that I am happy with the bike and it is plenty fast enough for me.
    I, meanwhile, apologise for my stupidity in trusting the piece of paper.
     
  16. all 749r's had box swingarm and red frame
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  17. didn't the 749RS make that sort of power?
     
    • Face Palm Face Palm x 1
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  18. New fork seals already!? I was told they would last 100 years if they were never used as they do not warp or perish in time, only through wear and tear. I don't get this? and then Magnesium yokes. Is this an issue with the forks to have new yokes and seals

    so...
    • Failed seal
      • The constant motion of the forks can wear the seal lip enough that the lip of the seal can no longer seal against the fork tube.
      • A broken or stretched seal coil spring (the spring that is wrapped around the seal lip diameter) will result in a relaxed seal grip on the fork tube, facilitating leakage.
      • Seal material can be damaged as a result of harsh riding conditions, fork mechanical problems or improper assembly.
      • Seal material can fail by age and/or contact with chemicals that the seal material is not compatible with. These could result in erosion about the lip of the seal, or loss of seal elasticity.
    • Seal installation problems
      • Seal retaining clip not fully seated in clip groove or is dislodged from the groove completely. This allows the seal to float around in the seal bore, which will likely result in leaking.
      • Seal not mounted squarely in fork tube. A seal will not seal properly unless it is fitted accurately. Because a seal is primarily made of an elastic material, it is possible to have a secure fit while being crooked.
      • Missing back-up ring, if applicable. In many designs, a steel back-up ring is mounted behind the oil seal. If it is missing, the seal is allowed to float in the seal bore, which will likely result in leaking.
    • Debris under the seal lip
      • A failed or worn dust seal will allow dirt to infiltrate the oil seal. Dirt will eventually push into the oil seal lip, causing a leak.
      • Fork alignment problems can open the sealing surface during fork movement, allowing material into the sealing area.
    • Fork alignment problems
      • Fork tubes not in alignment due to improper front wheel mounting. Improper wheel mounting causes the fork tubes to be out of parallel with each other. Also see article on front wheel installation.
      • Fork tubes not in alignment due to triple clamp problems. With a hard impact or crash, the fork tubes can be twisted in the triple clamps, causing the forks to be out of parallel with each other.
      • Fork tubes not equal in mounting height. When the fork tubes are not mounted equal in height, the spring load during compression of the fork is not equal from side to side. This causes a bending force that can open a sealing surface slightly.
    • Fork damage
      • Bent inner fork tube.
      • Scratched surface on inner fork tube.
      • Severely worn surface of inner fork tube.
      • Dent(s) on inner fork tube.
      • Inner fork tube out of round.
      • Fork slider bushings badly worn.
      • Excessive wear of the outer fork tube inside diameter.
      • Bent outer fork tube.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  19. i would ask for a wheel base measurement, the front wheel looks too close to the v fairing for me. :upyeah:
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
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