I bought this as an extra tank, because it's the earlier version which I need for my refurb project. It is supposedly water tight (fuel tight), but does show some signs of surface rust. I've never used it myself yet, so thinking that belt and braces approach would be best, and treat the inside. What's the best product for the job? POR 15 ? Sorry about the photos, I need a proper inspection camera really.
Had success with POR15 on my spare track tank for the 748/853 and that had a small weep from a stretched joint as well. Andy
I've have not done it personally, and the cost is £300. But you get a full three year warranty so I would expect this to be the belt & braces incorporating the dogs dangly parts. http://www.fuel-tank-renu.co.uk/pages/tanks.html
Give it a few days of electrolysis to get all the rust out, works a treat, then coat the inside with oil until you're going to use it.
I haven't come across POR-15 before today . My ST4 tank started to weep fuel about 10 years ago , from the seat end , where the bracket / hinge is . I was recommended something called Petro-patch ( ?? ) which was like a runny fibre glass resin and it did a good job . I've been working on the same tank recently ( fuel pump failed ) and it seems like it could use some good sealant again now . This product from POR-15 looks like what I'd used before - https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer Reading this thread has started me thinking that I ought to do it right now , while the tank is still dry and clean ( -ish )
Probably best you look it up on the internet, basically fill the tank with water and soda crystals and pass an electric current thru it from a battery charger. I've done a few tents and it's amazing the rust it removes. Tank sealers are good until it starts to peel off and block everything.... I know their not supposed to but if the do...
If you use a "tank sealer" I would try (it might not always be possible) to put an additional fuel filter in the system; so that when - rather than if - it starts to disintergrate you don't get a carb or injectors filled with bits of tank sealant...
Does the electrolosis change the rust back to metal, or does it remove the rust leaving a "thinner" tank where the rust was?
It removes the rust from the tank and deposits it onto the anode in your electrolytic cell. It only takes rust, so the metal of the tank is no thinner than it was before, it just hasn’t got rust on it.
electrolosis Works on witchcraft! Plug it in , leave it and all the rust magically moves onto the anode! Result My homemade induction heater works on witchcraft too!! I do wonder what it's doing to my hand but the witchcraft side of it is awesome..
I have done 3 SS tanks and about to do a Cagive Elefant tank with POR 15. I have tried Electrolysis and it does work, however last time I used spirit of salts, basically strong acid and it eats the rust, as well as good metal to a lesser degree. Then I used the POR 15 metal prep and sealant. I have been very happy with the results. The last one was pretty rusty and had pinholes in it. I got some POR 15 putty to fill the holes and then the sealer goes over that. Ill be doing the same with the next tank. I have tried coke, vinegar, electrolysis and for me, this was my favourite method. Spirit of salts fumes are NASTY though so use in a well ventilated space.
You only need something salt based for electrolysis witchcraft to happen. Don’t need anything like acid.
HCl is possibly not the best on a rusty tank as it eats into the steel too, whereas electrolysis, phosphoric acid and citric acid pretty much only react with the rust.
Ye olde Takeshi Suzuki currently being reborn in my conservatory, has a leaky tank as well as a battered dented one. Luckily the battered one has no rust so I am in the clear. Still all these tales of majik compounds and electrickery has given me some ideas... I just bought this from ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372122005945 Lets see what happens!
