Finally got myself an SS I was after a white frame model but they are a bit thin on the ground so got a February 1994 ss it seems all original with no parts missing part from a few little odds and sods a big bonus was a receipt from Bains racing for replacing the studs to the black ones. Previous owner never rode it just tried to start it a few times with not much luck and needed a bit of easy start, so sold as a project which was perfect for me, First job was the take the stickers off, A big thank you to @Chris for answering all my questions on the SS to help me get a bit of knowledge.
A friend came over this afternoon to make a start at getting it running as I'm looking to get it running before i start taking it apart and sort any problems first, The starter relay wasn't in the rubber holder as it was facing the wrong way so i turned it around, before i ask more questions does it matter which way the wires are bolted to it ( it seems just a switch) I'm sure i reconnected it as it was. EDIT, Been doing a bit more searching last night and doesn't matter which way round the switch is. I fitted a new petrol tap so no more leaks
Battery charged up ,drained the tank and in with fresh fuel, turned the key and the dash lights come on but no side stand light, the switch is broken down by the stand so earthed it and it lights up. Choke on press the button it nearly starts so a bit of easy start and up she fires, plenty of smoke which i thought it might as the previous owner thinks a valve could be sticking the shed was like we had a two stroke in there so switch off and moved outside thats when we changed the starter relay around to face the right way and connect into its holder. Next job was start her up and test the R/R this time started first time and ticked over with no choke less smoke this time but still a bit not to fussed as engine will be coming out, Whilst it was running i noticed a bit of smoke coming from the fusebox so turned off to have a look, Looking at the box you can see some of the fuses are 10 and not 7.5, the 15 amp melted but hasn't broken the wire inside, there must have been a problem before with the same fuse melting as all the fuses have been moved down by one position. You can see the top red wire has a bit of over heating also at sometime, At the moment all i can think of is the R/R is faulty, looking at the two yellow wires i think thats not a standard connection? The fuse thats gone should be 7.5 and is the ignition fuse, anyone else had this and any help appreciated
very nice! (well, up to the melty fuse point) bike appears very clean, best of luck with it. edit: confirm, yellow connections are not oe / standard.
Hi The regulator rectifier is a bit of an Achilles heel on these bikes and will turn your bike into a barbecue if you ignore a flickering charge light. The two yellow generator cables often overheat at the connecting plugs so maybe best to inspect and possibly upgrade them (yours are aftermarket) make sure all the r/r connectors are clean especially the earth that’s just onto a mounting bolt, heat sink compound is a good idea onto the back plate The rest of the bike looks great especially engine paint and rust free tank, after you’ve dropped the engine check the frame for cracking at the headstock at the tankclamp bracket mounting bosses if it’s okay a bolt on frame brace is a good idea
Re: melted but not blown fuse, and signs of any overheating wires immediately adjacent to fuseholder - this is quite a common problem across the board, on many different Ducati/Cagiva around that time where the actually fuseholder/wire terminal is not quite up to the job plus may take on a small bit of corrosion resulting in resistance between fuse tang and this terminal. This faulty combination usually develops gradually over the years and if it has been "cooking" like this for a while then a permanent cure can require drastic measures as the temper of the overheated terminals and the wire has often changed by this time. Last bike I cured was a 900 Elefant (now owned by a member on here) which required new connectors and a remote fuseholder while I decided whether to source a new O.E.M. fuseholder and possibly chop and replace some loom wires. I never got round to it, but at least problem was solved.
Hi Chris I think next job is check over all connectors and fusebox for any corrosion and take a close look at the wire connections in the fusebox as i can see a previous owner has had this problem before and also changed the connections on the two yellow wires, after a tidy up i will try again and test the r,r. Interesting you mention new oem fuseholder that would be a good way to go if they are available and i might also change the rr for peace of mind as its the original one.
That is more likely. Or worn / sticking piston rings. It could even be that the PO put some oil down the bores to store it and it will clear up with a bit of running.
Re: fuseholder, you could "play it by ear", fit fresh fuses making sure connections are good and then check for overheating of fuse bodies during use, as might have settled down now. Re: RR, those early units get a bad name unnecessarily, as early failure was nearly always down to the 4 connections taking on corrosion and not the unit itself and often the aftermarket Regulators don't perform as well as the originals. I've had many monsters and SS where the original unit was still plodding happily away after 20 years.
Took the regulator off to check the back of it and cleaned the earth wire to it, the reg connectors needed a clean as a bit filthy, Pulled all the fuses and notice the other blue 15a was also a bit melted. Cleaned the fuse box as best as I could and new fuses fitted, replaced the 10a fuses with the correct 7.5 a,now have battery on charge.
The electrical circuit was only just adequate when it was new so it’s probably a good idea to get some contact cleaner and a toothbrush and clean EVERY connector on the bike, not as big a job as you might think, remember to clean the frame to engine earth just behind the right footrest/rear master cylinder It doesn’t need much corrosion to overload your circuits
I changed the fuse holder on my 916. It looks the same but is slightly different to the OEM as it has standard spade connectors. Makes it quite easy to change. Here is a short video if you're interested.
Thanks for that, is a good solution especially what you searched for as i searched for Ducati fuse box with no luck.
This one, which might help others. Fuse Box 8 Way for Standard Blade Fuses ATO Holder / Block Base EntryeBay Premium ServiceOpens in a new window or tab
Did a few more checks over the weekend and learnt to always check I have turned the bloody fuel tap on and not go scratching my head at what the problem could be Had it running again in the garden and no smoke so bonus, one pipe seemed a bit hotter then the other so probably fueling but not addressing that as it will all be coming apart also found out the starter relay needs replacing as had to squeeze/ nudge to work once started it was fine, A receipt for the battery has it as 2 years old and when I got the bike he said the battery will need replacing I have charged it a few times and when attempting to start the bike and the fuel pump is constant it lost a bit charge a bit to much to be honest so next job was disconnect the reg and alternator which was hard wired, alternator seems good but not sure about regulator but spoke to mate and by coincidence he was going to West county wiring this week they tested it I think he said they can heat them up to test, result was one part was not working, when separating the reg/alternator you can see a previous owner has changed the yellow wire for a thicker one I assume it’s all he had to hand as why would you up grade a bit of it and not just use the original wire size as it still has a bit of it attached to the alternator (I know they are glued into the alternator) but surely what he has done will make no difference as it would melt the original bit? So next job is replace regulator and get the fuse box replaced, thanks petsmith.
Nearly forgot Remember folks if it doesn’t fit then get a big drill bit in the drill and make it fit Anyone got a spare for sale,
