I am suspicious that this Bike has had a low speed or stationary fall on the gear lever side. Only 3000 miles when i got it but I have been having problems with clunky transmission, the gear lever was loose and the cush drive rubbers in the rear sprocket have some play in them..so.. First job first and i have replacement gear lever shaft bolt and o ring and a replacement swivel bearing for that to sit into. slackened off the adjuster nut on the linkage and went to put a 12mm spanner around the shaft part (A) and it will not budge, i am begining to round off the bolt head part of that. So it is seized..correct? that should turn around freely to allow the end swivel bearings to take up slack in adjustment. the whole purple shaft (ooooeeerrr!) should turn freely right? obviously pulling the spanner towards me rather than tightening. am i going to have to mole grip the fecker now?> put WD 40 down both ends for the time being. Oh,and replaced the gear change bolt in the meantime anyways, looks like someone forgot the other O ring on the inside,and no grease on the bolt at all, that seems better already but the rest of the linkage still needs to be tightened up a bit. suggestions?
You should be trying to slacken the shaft using the milled in slots (B). Try holding the sensor end in a vice or use a suitable sized drill bit through the ball joint (if you don’t have a vice). I think (A) is for tightening the lower locknut.
yeah but...you cant get to the milled flat part,that is behind the frame, you also cannot access either ball joint bolt at either end due to space and lack thereof for an allen key.failing taking the rear wheel off and the chain to try and gain acces to the back of the rear balljoint there is little that can be done it would seem, maybe a hacksaw through the purple shaft and fuck it.
just to be clear. A and B are the same part,one end has a nut profile and the other the flat part,so they both should work to undo it. methinks it is seized and requires cutting and replacing. On a 3k mile bike too. gummy crankcase sealant under the fairing too on that side so looks like a drop and maybe a bit of a shock to that lever and shaft.
Ok. Can’t you just remove the rearset and release the quickshifter? That’s how I did mine when I changed it.
You have to remove the linkage to remove the rod end and/or adjust the lever position/height. Removing the rear set is the only way. The shaft B/A whatever you want to call it, shouldn’t be unscrewed off the quick shift sensor. It’s set at a pre defined torque and loctite’d. This sets the preload of the sensor assembly. if you’ve unscrewed it, then it needs to come apart, cleaned up and refitted correctly.
so the assembly is not designed to be adjusted up and down? sounds mental to me, the only way to make the length of that rod change is to be able to rotate it around a threaded rod that it sits on..surely? otherwise you are twiddling the end joint around loose hoping for the right setting. that sleeve MUST be the adjuster mechanism and not fixed or loctited in place on its thread.The quckshift sensor sits on the grey part, the purple sleeve is what should be moving to make any adjustment.
Nope. All the adjustment is done with the rod end and it needs to be removed from the lever to turn it. The grey part is the quick shift sensor. It houses the pushrod that triggers the transducer in the plastic housing. The diagram Jamie has posted explains it well
Thank you for taking time to explain Nelly. so it looks like the only way to adjust the length of that is to undo the bearing end and turn that around inside the sleeve manually. I did speak to another Ducati mechanic who says that the sleeve should rotate and that it does sieze.the quickshift sensor is on the next block along. the obvious way to adjust would be using that sleeve as a rotation around threaded ends,it could be tightened to wards the sensor end and the bearing end piece would un thread at the same time. Otherwise there is really no adjustment available without pulling half the rearsets apart, it simply doesn't make sense to me,but I am willing to learn.
and here again I found a similar story,it seems that most people go for the taking the rearsets off and turning the rose joint manually.a very poor design.https://www.959panigale.net/threads/problem-adjusting-gear-shift-lever.18244/
It's not supposed to spin, it's designed to be fixed at the top and locktighted (good luck spinning that). There is no locking nut for a start so if it was loose, it would flex and that's not good for gear changes. See full image below from the workshop manual. This is how it's fitted, not adjusted, but to me its very clear where the adjustment should be and that's only the bottom rose joint and unfortunately, that means at a minimum, removing it from the shift lever and struggle a bit or the whole rearset. Poor design or not, that's how you do it.
Correct. The ONLY adjustment to the lever height is with the rod end. The "sleeve" is one piece. That should not be rotated around the quick shifter sensor. People rotating it when trying to adjust the lever is the biggest cause of quickshifter faults. Once it's fitted, with Loctite and torqued up, it shouldn't be moved unless it's being replaced. To adjust it the way you describe would need one end to be a LH thread, like the conventional link rods. Still makes no odds as one end has to be a secure fit to the sensor push rod. Good design, bad design.... doesn't matter. It is what it is and if you want to adjust the lever, you need to take the rear set or the lever off. Rotate the linkage shaft at your own risk, but you will get Q/S errors or missed gears.
