Hi all, Riding to work today and 10 miles in the bike refuses to rev past 4K, no acceleration and when I pull in to a lay by the bike cuts out. Faint smell of burning rubber and the bike needed a jump start first thing as I've lent my trickle charger out (bike has been fine starting itself without it all summer) Am I right in thinking it's likely to be the reg/rec or wiring to do with that part of the electrical system, or shall I investigate anything else? Cheers in advance. 5 years of owning a 20 year old bike, 3-5K a year and this is the first problem it's given me, so been pretty lucky so far!
Sounds like reg/rec. check charging voltage across battery when running. You’re looking for 13.5+ volts The issue with it not pulling, could be fuel filter or collapse fuel line. In a convoluted way, they can be connected.... blocked filter or pump being put under excess load can draw too much current and the reg/rec goes.
So, a quick dismantle is all I had time for after work, will do a bit more over the weekend. But this is the power connector to the reg/rec!
Hopefully its just a crap connection has caused your problem.Cut the plug and socket out and solder the wires.Then check that the charging system is working okay.Fingers crossed.
Both those are burnt out. Agree with Steve about not soldering them... makes working on the bike (belt changes) a pita. Good connectors and wrapped are the best route. I'd check the fuel filter as a matter of course. The yellow cables are AC supply from alternator and the most common ones to fail. The red/black are DC supply to the battery/bike. Those burning would suggest a high current draw by the bike...... fuel pump.
I haven't gone straight to exact connector on first link, others may have better sources to add:- https://kojaycat.co.uk/Connectors-Bullet https://www.electrostator.com/en/st...t-sportclassic-gt1000-st2-944-supersport.html
Maybe solder is not the best but it removes a source of resistence which makes for heat/damage, which then makes for increased resistence,and then more heat/ damage and on and on.Good quality plugs would be a better option.
so right Keith - I only used to solder not only because of above but that it meant vehicle was on the road again far quicker.
I did this to mine. I cover each joint with clear heat shrink to make it obvious/remind myself that there are connectors under each one. Having access to a decent crimping tool helped.
Cheers guys, new connectors on order with some lovely shrink wrap. Will pop in to On Yer Bike this week for a fuel filter and get her back on the road this week.
Hello again everyone. I had a bit of time over the weekend to strip the old girl down and have a look for anything obvious. Main plan was to check the timing (recently changed the belts), replace the old regulator clips as they were knackered and change the fuel filter. I love how quickly this bike strips down to check these things. The timing was fine, thankfully no cockups there. Regulator clips replaced with spangly new ones. Pump body removed from the tank and new fuel filter all ready to be fitted when I spot the problem that caused the poor running. This is the fuel pipe that runs from the filter to the quick release junction no. 5 in this pic: Obviously fuel was just being pumped back in to the tank rather than to the injectors. Don't know how this happened, but the pipe was 20 years old so may just be age or it may have been caught at some point. Anyway, off to On Yer Bike for some new high pressure fuel line and once fitted the bike started and idled fine and revs fine so just need to get a chance to ride her to check it's all sorted. Thank you for the help, always feel it helpful to post the solution to these problems.
