The converting my 999 for track instead of road is going well, but I'm a bit confused on the simple on/off switch to replace the ignition key assembly. My ECU has had the imobiliser mapped out so I just need a simple switch which bridges the perm live (red/yellow) to the switched feed to the relays that kick off all the magic. I have been trying to find out how much load goes through that switch, but cant seem to get my dumbass multimeter to give me any load reading on that circuit. I have found a very nice switch that I would like to use, and its rated at 3amps @12v. I suspect that the actual load is minimal as its just firing relays elsewhere, but I dont want to catch anything on fire especially as its right in front of the tank and its vent pipes!! The fancy pants and very expensive jetprime unit is nice and I suspect that the switch they use is a low amp rating too, but £130 is mental for a switch. Does anyone know if I can safely use a 3 amp rated switch? Its a track bike without any lights so the current ignition key is only joining two wires and nothing else. Thanks in advance Deaks
Indeed, but I think that the two wires that ‘make’ the ignition circuit are not drawing 7.5 amps (or anything like it) as the circuit is triggering relays that handle the higher amp draws. I tried to make sense of the wiring diagram and I think that matches my theory, but I’m not 100% sure. I might just order another multimeter from Amazon tonight and check again tomorrow.
I have a dedicated 749 trackbike (no lights fitted, short race loom etc) - bike still has the original ignition switch and has been run like that for over15 years without a problem. Just wondered what the pros and cons of removing it are?
I guess it has its pros and cons really. pros are no issues forgetting the key or damaging the key. a little less weight, but not that’s an issue for me at 95kg, I could loose more by not having breakfast. Cons are it’s a bit easier for someone else to start it and bugger off on it. I guess I’m trying to minimise damaging any of the original Ducati bits other than what’s essential. I have found out this evening that the internal fuse has blown on my multimeter, so that would explain not getting a reading from it!!!
Update So with a new Multimeter, I have confirmed that the amps drawn when starting the engine is a max of 1.6 amps, so I can safely use the switch I wanted to use. I hoping to have a 3d printed holder for the switch ready tomorrow.
Looks very good, better than the JetPrime. Shame ive just received a JP switch for mine otherwise I'd of asked you to make me one for the 959!
