999 maintenance

Discussion in '749 / 999' started by salmore, Feb 19, 2014.

  1. Hi all,

    I've had some random electrical / ecu related 'glitches' on my bike.
    I'm wanting to do a full service of it myself and get all possible issues out of the way,
    a very helpful chap has advised me to do the following:

    1. JPDiag

    · TPS reset
    · Fuel trim adjustment
    · Balance throttle bodies (vacuum gauge)

    2. Gunson Gas Analyser - test mixture levels / CO2 levels

    3. Cover battery terminals in silicone grease / dielectric grease.

    4. Check earth cable for damage + clean / replace

    5. Check starter HT lead from relay to started for damage / replace

    6. Change injector/coil/fuel pump relay

    · found below starter relay (back of battery box)
    · eBay for around £2
    · needs to be 12V 4pin

    7. Get a Digital Meter

    · Link Here (£6)

    8. Put back DP ECU

    9. Flush Injectors clean

    · If not at least use injector cleaner in the tank

    10. Check if both exhaust link pipes are cat-free (1/2 way across the link pipe a CAT heat shield will be found if not cat-free)


    As i'm a noobie, still learning I need some help in defining how to and what some of these mean, if any of you could offer some help it would be apprecaited:

    1. I've reset the TPS on these before, but never balanced throttle bodies or adjusted fuel trim, can this be done without dyno? I understand i need to buy a vacuum gauge for throttle body adjustment? not sure about the fuel trim.

    2. again this i'm assuming is in relation to correct mixture levels (fuel vs air), mapping the throttle right? again if I buy a Gunson analyser can i use it without dyno?

    5. anyone have a picture of what the 'starter HT lead' looks like so I have an idea of what I'm looking for? or keywords to use when looking on ebay?

    6. I've not done this before, seems simple... but not familiar with what these are, i thought this was referring to cables or leads, but looking on ebay i'm coming up with what looks like end of a power supply for a computer, but with no cable coming out of it... or a large fuse? is that what is meant by this?

    9. any suggestions?


    Thanks in advance, and keep in mind that I'm not tooo mechanical yet, so please avoid using too much jargon :)
     
  2. Very interestingly I've narrowed some of the problems to the regulator/rectifier and following replacing it, no more electrical gremlins! (for now). also the slow idle problem has been slightly less of an issue after the r/r replacement... not sure what r/r has to do with idle, but apparently it does.
     
  3. It is controlled by an ECU which relies on a stable voltage to operate.
     
  4. I'm sure you're right :)

    my guess is there is a chance that the unstable voltages caused the ecu maybe to screw up some of the mapping? without spending TONS on getting it remapped... probably going to purchase a power commander to fix the mapping.
     
  5. The purchase price and then set up price of a power commander, probably costs as much and is inferior to the full map set up on the original ECU by the likes of CJS of Bristol, or BDS? (BSD?) of Peterborough?
     
  6. Thanks, good point, i'll try and contact some locals and see what they quote for ECU remap, compare this to power commander price. To be honest I will not be running the bike on track so I dont want to spend £££ on tuning the bike 100%. Dynojet does quote that their maps you can download yourself tunes the bike 90% (ish). and i would be happy with that I think, also since i could tune with my pc, i could just add a bit of fuel or take some away at 0% throttle and tune the idle myself. thus it would really be a price compare between power commander purchase price vs ecu retune. also having a PCiii i could always tweak things myself?
     
  7. I'm planning to get my ECU remapped at CJS. A power commander may improve things but 90% correct is still 10% wrong :)

    On the upside, you can sell the PC module separately if you sell the bike, which gets you some money back, but I'm more interested in having the engine running at its best as I have no plans to part with it.

    Cheers,
    Dom
     
  8. Mine was being a twat after winter. I stuck in new plugs, new battery and made some thicker battery leads.

    So far so good
     
  9. let me know how much, if you dont mind, it runs you to get the ecu remapped when you do. As i said, i would love for the bike to run smoother, but as i'll never track it, it makes no sense to pay a lot of money for something that i will not take advantage of. My reasoning behind the pciii is what you've mentioned that i can tweak it myself get it to an 'ok' state and virtually lost no money as can always sell the thing, they tend to keep their price. Especially as I dont have any big issues with the bike as is, just little tweaks would be nice to run smoother.
     
  10. I've just emailed Chris to book my bike in so will let you know...

    Cheers,
    Dom
     
  11. Great, i've contacted one of the local Ducati shops 'Moto Rapido' they've quoted me around £600 for full service. I also need the co2 adjusted / idle, they've quoted £1000 for full serivce + the co2 adjusted.... i think that's steep... I know it's a ducati, but that's A LOT compared to what these bikes are worth...
     
  12. Try calling Rich Llewelyn at LouigiMoto, near Bristol. He serviced mine for less than that including fitting a Slipper Clutch and setting up the suspension. CJS is also based at the same site so you can ask about an ECU tune while you're there...
     
  13. Thats crazy.
     
  14. I've been advised by a friend locally to try WM Snell, they're not the cheapest out there, but they do what they do well. I've decided to only have them do my timing belt, as I'm not at all comfortable doing that myself and I've done 2 years + 9k miles on the current one already. They quoted about £220 for it, which is not horrible i guess. I'll be doing the rest of the service myself, brake pads, fluids, oil + filter changes and such, as those I'm not scared of :)
     
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