just bought 2006 999s Previous owner had fitted termi end can. I have now fitted the remainder of this full system. I am happy (to say the least) with the performance but am left wondering if I should fit the "chip" that comes with the exhaust. I know not fitting it may leave some lack of performance due to slightly incorrect fuelling but other than this I don't think will give any probs as just used for road use/not raced. Will it do any harm to leave standard chip? If I do fit, will it make the motor really peaky ( like changing to race cams on previous jap bikes)? If fitted does it mean that I have to recode the keys/which would mean it's not worth it I think? Fork oil seals seem to be a future problem and I've heard r1 ones fit/ are better, anyone know the year or part number. Thanks
I ran my 05 999 with asymetric(half) system for 5 years on std ecu with no probs. With full system you might run too weak which causes overheating. If you've got the chip fit it. You'll lose the hole in the fuelling at 4-5k revs. Get the tps reset afterwards, a 10 minute job.
Thanks for the quick response. I rode the bike 1000m across Spain to Mallorca previously with the exhaust end can without any heating problems ( except of course with my arse). It was this "delivery trip" that led me to pester the owner to sell it to me. The ugly duckling I started off on turned into the best bike I have ever ridden. The pipes seem to be the same diameter as the originals so can't see they will make a significant difference (just a lot lighter) I will probably fit the chip anyway but still a bit concerned about race type/ lumpy running etc, but can always remove again if I want. Now just to show my ignorance,what is tps? I assume this is key recoding but haven't a clue really. Thanks again Mark
DP Ecu should make the bike run better not lumpy. TPS is throttle position sensor. They need resetting when changing ecu. Although bike should run ok anyway. Done via laptop plugged into bike. Chat up dealer/workshop, back door job for a drink. Take bike in with fairing sides off to save time.
Thanks for that. Does that mean the keys etc don't need recoding as I thought they had to match the ecu ( which I thought was what I was changing but i am a bit of a dum'un)
Most DP ecu are left uncoded so they can go from bike to bike if they get sold with the exhaust. I think if you use the red key with the dp ecu you will code it to your bike. Something along those lines anyway. Im not 100% sure how it all works.
Thanks for all your help. I will have a chat with a local ex dealer who was gazzumped in Ducatis drive to become a chain of car dealerish dealerships. I think they may be more willing to help with "bits on the side" I will let you know the result when I get round to it.
The ecu is a bit of a pain to unearth 1st time. Remove battery then battery box unbolts and swings round on cables. Remove 4? small phillips screws to remove heatshield and Ecu is bolted by 2 bolts to battery box. The 2 connectors have clips that swivel over the connector. Locate the pump solenoid while you're there and pop a new one in for £3 or clean blades and make waterproof with finger from rubber glove.
Thanks for your reply/advice you were spot on and made the job easy. Tick over is fine and seems to run really smoothly, but I will get the tps checked when I get a chance. Now getting the fork seals sorted as they are leaking again. The bike has only just done 3000m but they were replaced after I took the bike on the Portsmouth/Santander ferry when I delivered it to Mallorca originally. Nicely strapped down I thought .... But I learnt my lesson. They were replaced after this and had done approx 200 miles before leaking again so I assume were replaced with shite ones in Mallorca and bike was strapped down during return van journey. I am getting the springs uprated anyway as I weigh 115kg with all gear. This was ducati world lesson two for me as I am used to working on my own bikes but came to a stumbling block when I removed the fairing thinking that I could support the front end via my hydraulic lift as usual. Looks like an abba stand is the answer or do other people just use blocks to support the uneven underside of the engine? Thanks again
I use standard under yoke stand on my 999. Remove spigot, place stand where it would normally go and strap yokes to horizontal bar with ratchet strap. The retaining pin prevents strap fron coming off end of horzontal bar.
That's what I call a quick reply. Looks like a good idea. I have a spare Harris front end stand- these are next useless anyway For most jobs so I will have a look at extending/adapting this to a paddock stand to suit Ta
Anyone using front under yoke stand like I do with a ratchet strap, use along with a rear stand as well.
I use an Abba stand (because I had it ) and have brought the attachment that allows the rear wheel/swing arm to be pulled down which gets the front wheel off the ground safely .
