1200 A Few Questions All In 1

Are you suggesting a shorter spring will lessen the shock's stroke? I don't think so. Both the springs will be under compression once mounted in the shock, topping out the stroke. A stronger spring will need more force to compress it, that's all. And it won't affect chain tension noticeably. If the swing arm pivot was exactly in line with the gearbox output shaft it wouldn't affect chain tension in any part of it's motion, as that is down to geometry.

 

I have a Monster 1200 and shifting from 2nd to 1st requires a stomp. It’s always been that way. I don’t know how typical this is though.

 

Due to clutch drag? It may of benefit to bleed the clutch, and/or check the lever adjustment for full throw.

 

That's how they are. Exactly same as mine.

 

I don't believe being in Urban mode or otherwise makes any significant, measurable, difference to the chain tension. On my first Multi with Skyhook I checked the tension in all the modes and I couldn't see any difference, certainly not using the supplied gauge. For peace of mind err on the 40mm rather than 38mm side and all will be well.
Similarly, when checking the oil level I checked with both wheels on the ground, flat and level, and then with the bike on the centre stand. Again, any difference in the sight gauge with insignificant. I now check it that way as it is much safer and there's no danger of dropping the bike.
Ducati are fine engineers and no doubt there will be a theoretical difference in both measurements, but in practice there is very little in it.

 

I agree with everything you say. I assume that Ducati wrote the owners handbook to cover the variants of the model and don't include the use of the centre stand in checks as the bike, without touring pack, don't have one.

Marginal difference in oil level but insignificant unless you're at the bottom of the sight glass when on the main stand. Slight difference in chain tension but I've compared with the guage and marked it accordingly with a Sharpie.

Far easier and safer to check on the centre stand.

 

Back to your original question regarding selecting first to second and finding neutral.

The solution is to fit an Oberon clutch slave cylinder. Makes the clutch lighter, makes gear changes slicker and makes finding neutral far easier. Just over £90 if I remember rightly.

I fitted one, I don’t even think about finding neutral now.

In my opinion, get a neutral colour, you’ll regret getting a lairy colour.

How do you find the uprated spring? Did you fit it for two up touring? What was the specification?

 

As my bike's got older the clutch master has started to let air in, but it builds up over a few thousand miles and first starts to manifest as a difficulty finding neutral until bled. Bite point remained fine just didn't disengage well.

The Oberon actually made the problem worse as the 15mm clutch master didn't provide enough actuation with any air in the system. The stock slave while a harder pull compensated for longer.

 

The spring difference of approx. 6mm must be compensated,
because the spring tensioning motor can move 8mm, so you are missing 6mm because the motor moves 6mm empty before it can tension the spring, you have to adjust the spring stop in its thread.