to any early Monster (or SS) owners running cut down airboxes during this bad weather.. As you all know - when fitting Dynajet needles and K&N air filters owners usually cut the top off their airboxes as recommended but there are many ways to do it. Found out mine was the wrong way today - inevitably i've ended up in the rain a few times but it was truly torrential a couple of days ago. I covered about 50 miles today but bottom end/idle running was really erratic. Emptied float bowls when I got back and a lot of water present so it's standard airbox lid time for now. (tank contents/filler cap seal checked)
well I could try it Steve but you know what a mess that stuff makes when you come to remove it. All the different lid chops i've seen (and i'm sure you and Mr R have seen more flavours than me) have a bias towards leaving the leading area more open than the back for obvious reasons and great in the summer . I'm sure it's all been done before*(and i'll spend some time researching maybe) but I have a few virgin lids so I might try adding two more std snorkels towards the back if there is room (just looked and it's crying out for a large third one in the middle (rearward facing like the std two)). just occurred to me - Shrek has got one of these on his head hasn't he? :smile: * wot's your favorite 'rain' lid Steve? (I should have added 851/888 to above as i'm sure they must suffer also.)
I tried the third snorkel idea and it did work quite well, dyno results were quite good too, if i remember correctly it was around 2-3hp down from an open lid, dunno about the rain getting in though, you could also try just cutting the rear portion out, then its less rain scoop shape. Anchors aweigh!
If it is any help, I ran my SS for three years without any carburation / running problems......Dynojet Stage II kit, open zorsts, and rubber trumpets not fitted in the airbox.....airbox not cut about either. ....whatever the running problems I eventually ended up with were (I still don't really know what it was and if it is completely cured) it wasn't to do with the set-up above. AL.
Just pulling the trumpets out of the front and one or two holes in the back of the lid is pretty much as effective. Had a couple of recent "issues" with cut down lids on the Monsters....
Funny all my monsters had/have open lids and I think all ok. Have to ask how does the water get in there? It is all under tank at the end?
You need more than just needles, so you buy a kit from Dynojet...........You get needles, throttle slide springs, jets (a range of appropriate sizes) O-rings to fit the jets and some tiny little washers.....plus instructions........ You have to decide whether you should have a Stage 1 or Stage 2 kit..... When you have spent several hours changing the jets and springs etc, you should then toddle off and get it set-up on a Dynometer, where in all probablilty they will take it apart, change the jets for a different size......but..... ...while they are doing that, no doubt it will become apparent that your emulsion tubes are worn and here goes the £££s rising. However, if you already have Dynojet needles fitted......(if you need to know if it is a Dynojet needle, ask); but if they are worn Dynojet will replace them free of charge. AL.
It's been wet in the west country today (see below) so have avoided using the bike. Have no choice on Monday though!
That was like us the other week ! Was fun to drive the motor through and by Jove it cleaned it a tad too
The only problem i had with the four snorkels is the rear two are enclosed towards the back of the tank. the one with three showed more promise. four certainly is better than two though!
'and three is better than four in my case' - I don't know what your 'third' looked like Spike and would be interested to see it - as I said to AL there's nothing scientific about it at this level. I tried 'three' out of sheer laziness really but I was getting a rich mixture at the top end and bike would not always pull up to max happily whereas 'four' in above configuration has totally cured the problem - not a lot more to add.
Chris, the third was fitted between and forward of the two, like a clover shape but pointing backwards. as for jetting i had similar problems, its to do with the way the main air bleed works with the main jet, and its not adjustable its cast in. you can mess with the emuslsion tubes but its a big headache, the more power you want to try for the worse it gets, about 90hp is reasonable for the std carbs. the only answer i have found is fcr's. i fitted 39's on std manifolds and made some adapters to use the blue bellmouths inside the airbox. I then went back to an airbox lid with no snorkels but with the holes in the same place as yours, i also put a row of 20mm holes right at the front just below the tank line. I found most power without the lid but the noise just got on your nerves, much better with the lid.