Attempting to synchronise carbs on bike running on side stand, a Ducati 600ss; I find it difficult to see the carb sync acres and so get a screwdriver on it.... How would you suggest I best get to it? Is there a trick? Perhaps a torch in low light would help - I haven't tried that yet, as it was very bright and bike is on the lawn... no garage. Useful tips appreciated! John
unless you can grow another wrist joint suggest you mark screw with paint (whilst carbs are off the bike)
Tools needed: Long crosshead screwdriver (with the next size crosshead down from normal crosshead) and a Mini-Maglite or similar.....and most importantly, wrap you right forearm in something protective....if you don't, you will soon find out way.......and it effing hurts. Balance gauges connected up, best hanging off the left clip-on; engine running....... Lay on your back on the right side of the bike, feet towards the rear wheel. Use the torch and look up to the underside of the carbs......the nearest crosshead is the throttle stop / idle speed screw......you can say it is slightly to the right of the centre (from where you are looking).....I would tweak it up a bit so it doesn't stall on you. Look harder and higher....you may have to use the screwdriver to move a fuel pipe out of the way to see the crosshead of the balance screw.......it is more or less dead centre of the bike........ ....the long screwdriver is now obvious and the smaller tip helps it locate in the screw easier (almost without looking).......note the screw position so you can return it and twist away.......count the turns.
@WAH900ss what a good idea here; pity I missed the opportunity earlier. @Arquebus. your description sounds useful here... cheers for that: I guess the side I lie on and the side I hang the gauges on are meant to be opposite because I'll be able to look across at the gauge better than look back and round.... I think the crosshead size would be a number 3 then (4-1)... if I remember correctly Now I'll give it a go. If you don't hear back form me, that's because I succeeded straight off with the given technique or because I buried my troubles, or dismantled the carbs and painted them with white spots. Cheers...
I just peeped up into the throttle cam link area in this twilight, and spotted it straight away with a torch - a shaded area is good then, if you have not white-marked the screw. I could see bugger-all in that recess in daylight - with or without torch. A six inch screwdriver blade would get to it quite OK. Seven or eight would be good, better. Checking a pz bit I have in my case, the 'usual' size I use for 3.5 to 5mm shank screws is pz2, and I found that is the best fit... PZ1 slipped a bit.
Ive got a bad scare on my arm from this job, not fun that screw is burried deep, I do love it when you talk dirty chuee!
Really long screwdriver is a good idea.. Take a tip from the old time photographers if you can't see against the light and use a blanket both over you and the bike, so you can see really well with a torch. The long screwdriver helps with visibility as well as access
Tried orange canvas over my head from an old tent - didn't do the trick - a dark blanket would have been better. I do have a brown camel blanket .. far to expensive for such work (did you know that camels wool is the warmest wool in the world...course you didn't; you see it's hollow... ) I waited till dusk again, in ambush with this new 250mm job, having spied the screw the evening before. Didn't take very long to get it sorted. It was about 1 mark on the mercury guide out (setting obtained by observation when rebuilding carbs), and I got it very near. Sounds sweet, I love it when, having prepared up to the point, I balance a carb, ready for on road tests and so further refinements to whatever. Funny thing I wish to report , this is first time on these mukuni's - though I balanced mikuni's on a GS 750; when I went just past the balance on the left carb, the revs shot up, soaring rapidly... I found that perplexing (never before experienced such a phenomena in my experience limited to just a few SU's, Amals, Mikuni. Anyway I brought it back a bit, and it was quickly back nearer the 1000 rpm again. THE DRIVER ---------------- Oh, and my new driver was a Philips2 (PH2).. but a PH1 would be better. I wouldn't at all advise a PH2.. it is not so easy.. so reliable a grip on the screw head, although I managed. I'll order a PH1 in 250mm to have ready for next time. The right driver is important here. I had a Something2 which was ok on an earlier dummy run... but it might have been a PZ, or a slightly worn PH... (but too short to really get the job done). ---end of driver talk @Lumbux Sorry to hear about the scar. I take it you're a dame? @Arquebus Once again, you've been an aide to me. You're kind of generosity makes me weep for joy. Yep, really. @Oldrider Sounds to me that you've long been observant, and resourceful with knowledge so gained. (-:
