V2 Akra End Cans Install

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by manicguitarist, Aug 15, 2020.

  1. Copied from FB....
    Installed the Akra end cans & air filter over the last 2 days.
    Getting the upmap installed tomorrow.

    Observations:

    It is a nice sound. Not too loud, but deeper than stock.
    The CEL comes on (due to removing the servo controlling the valve in the oem can). Performance not affected - ie it isn’t in limp home mode.
    It feels to have a lot more torque already - power wheelies are much more a thing now. Will report how the upmap changes things.

    Installation observations:
    Tools you need that you might not have: 8mm long reach socket, torx driver.
    Undo & remove the clamp holding the oem can on as soon as you can. Frees things up.
    Fit the new cans to the Y-piece and then the y piece to the header pipe.
    Air filter fitting is fiddly, but straight forwards-don’t be afraid of un clipping the injectors from the airbox.
    *Do* be careful to not disturb too much the high pressure fuel line immediately above the injectors. I inadvertently half disconnected it-and after a test ride it popped loose and the bike hosed petrol *everywhere* . Just pleased I wasn’t pictured on here engulfed in flames. ‍♂️
    The absolute hardest part about the install was reconnecting the fuel tank breather hoses. I’d swear they’re 1” too short. Use mole grips and pliers and lots of “FOR FUCK SAKE!!”

    Then...
    Got the "Upmap" put on the bike, and did another 200 miles.
    Thoughts & observations:
    The Akra pipes are not that much louder than stock at idle or at speed, but they are much deeper - sound nicer. The bike is *a lot* louder at 30 to 35mph - because that is when the valve shuts in the OEM can. Be civilised - use the extra torque (see below) and trundle through towns at 30mph in 4th.

    Compared to Akra with no up-map - well, firstly the CEL goes out with the upmap - and fueling is a lot better. With out the up map she was popping and banging even at idle.

    There is a noticeable amount more torque and power. Except it doesn't feel it. Let me explain - with the OEM can there is a dip in power and torque that is really noticeable - but because of that dip when you get out of it, there is a sudden rush of power. Now the bike makes more power at all revs - but the dip in power is filled in, so no sudden rush.

    How do I know it is making more power then? It feels like you're down a gear - it feels as spritely in 3rd as it used to do in 2nd etc. This actually made me think that there was a fault with the bike - because I opened the throttle hard and she didn't take off - and I thought "that's pretty poor acceleration for 3rd" - but I was in 5th. ‍♂️ Dropped it to 4th and she took off like a scolded cat...

    After that I made a point of keeping myself in the gears I was using before - i.e. revs above 6000 at all times - and - a great deal more torque. Lots of power wheelies on hard acceleration.

    In 1st and 2nd going downhill, off the throttle - she pops and bangs - sounds like a 50cal on automatic fire.

    I'm really happy with the bike and Akras and upmap. Recommended.
     
  2. Is that with baffles in or out?
     
  3. Baffles in
     
  4. Hi guys - just noted I had tagged it V4 , it was actually V2. Sorry.
     
  5. I was going to ask the same. Mine are really loud without the baffles!!!

    I've tried and failed twice to put the baffles in. The right hand one is easy enough, the single sided swing arm gives loads of space to do it. But the left hand one seems impossible without removing the rear wheel.
     
  6. Mine came with the baffles already in.
    Removing the rear wheel isn’t difficult though - just need a good torque wrench on reinstallation.
     
  7. The dealer removed the baffles when fitting the cans, so I haven't experienced the bike with them in place yet.

    I've got the correct socket for the rear nut, but my wrench only goes to 250Nm :rolleyes:
     
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