Aluminum Oxidisation

Not a silly question, but in general I would say use something specially for aluminium alloy. That and/or elbow grease; Solvol Autosol has always been effective, although it is quite abrasive. A lot can be done with power tools and brushes (plastic/brass, not steel unless really bad corrosion), pads, mops etc.

The old Hein Gericke catalogues used to have a few special "works like magic, just paint it on and polish/rinse off" products listed. I'd be worried about seepage into gaps and threads though so would prefer not to use stuff like that for parts in situ.

But if Kurust is still available, isn't it some sort of paint, rather than a cleaner? I certainly remember that with old cars and the like, special paints/primers did not usually "Cure" rust completely. For metal preparation prior to painting, or perhaps serious polishing if aluminium rather than steel based, then acids do work well, but I'd reserve that for work on items that have been taken off to be refinished. Because I have some left over from a tank resealing job, I sometimes use the POR15 "marine clean" (alkaline) wash, followed by "Metal ready" (phosphoric acid) treatment to prepare rusted old steel parts for painting, after removal of surface rust; I think this gives a good chance of keeping rust at bay for years, as long as a really good paint coating is then applied (obviously POR15 paint is one example).

Perhaps a good idea to do some youtube research?

 

Remind me to pop my cases round sometime.

 

So is the skin of your hands heavily impregnated with particles of steel wool? And if not how come? Do you buy gloves by the box full?

 

I use Scottish Brite pads to get corrosion off of aluminium. Most of the time there is no need for any acidic solutions as the oxidisation is easily removed with a bit of rubbing. Phosphoric acid solutions, like Alumiprep can be used when the corrosion is more serious, but always check whether the solution is suitable for the particular alloy. Using the wrong solution can cause more damage than the corrosion.

BTW, don't use steel wool, this will definately cause dissimilar corrosion!

 

I regularly service two of these at work, neither owner cleans them and they get ridden in all weather.

To be honest although they have surface corrosion it doesn't get any worse and they both have good milages on them 60,000 ish.

A month back we had them both in, and noticed they were the same year on the reg plates.

Looked at the frame numbers and one ended 101 and the other 103, next but one off the production line!, they weren't original sold locally either so whats the chances of that.

As others have said you need to remove the corrosiln with elbow grease and brass brush/ scotchbrite etc but to be honest I wouldn't spend too long over it

May be worth treating it with ACF50 while the panels are off..

 

I've used Wonder Wheels to get corrosion off alloy on Brit bikes including carbs. Won't be shiny though, then you need hard work with wire wool and Autosol

 

Here is a good explanation of why steel does not work very well with aluminium.

Would you use steel wool on aluminum wheels - VTXOA

On aircraft we NEVER use steel wool due to the dangers of corrosion. If interested the FAA have produced this guide to corrosion which provides a lot of useful info .... (see section 6.4 for the wire wool info).

https://www.faa.gov/regulations_pol...craft/amt_handbook/media/FAA-8083-30_Ch06.pdf

Scottish-Brite, or a similar non-metallic product, is as good as steel wool at rubbing corrosion from the surface of aluminium, without the downsides of introducing traces of a dissimilar (higher or lower nobility) metal.

 

Car wax works well.
If it's a sandcast finish, work it in with a scrubbing brush

 

Yes, I've used Scotchbrite before, good point about steel on alloy

 

Off to buy some scotchbrite


(or steal wife's scouring pads...)