As title - has anyone been or is currently running the auto tune module from Bazzaz? I hear of other names out there being used but can't find anything on the search function. Just wanted time feedback on it really as I'm looking at purchasing it myself. Some others I know absolutely rave about them and I've witnessed how good the system seems to be (on a friend's R6) first hand. My bike has been mapped very well by CJS, but you can't beat real world mapping to make it run perfectly in my opinion Sam
I would say take it back to Chris - if you think its not right then tell him - he does pride himself on getting the best out of it...
Oh trust me the mapping is spot on, just with riding at different circuits (Cartagena in 30+C vs Cadwell in 5C / snow showers) the bike loses some power when it's warmer or at sea level for example. It was mapped in the winter when it was pretty cold, see. At Cadwell it was lifting the front wheel in fourth, but at Cartagena it wouldn't pick it up in 3rd. Speaking to the race team that ran the event they said they'd had to make substantial changes to fuelling to compensate for the track and conditions, for which they used the Bazzaz autotune
Not sure if this can be done on a ducati but my rsv4 has the 3 maps (Wet, Road and track) replaced with 3 variations of the corse mapping (3 different versions of a Corse mapping with engine braking variations) ie tight twisties or high speed.... Having said that I can see your point regarding the Bazzaz. Just seems a bit of shame to add an extra box onto Chris's work (been there a few times myself) but, totally understandable considering what you've just said...
Having spoken to Chris at CJS it seems the ambient temperature and running temp of the bike is the issue. It makes perfect sense given the fact the bike is a monster in the cooler temps and when engine coolant temps are in the 90s. On track in Cartagena it was 35c and dropping over the evening, and my engine coolant was well over 100c - generally 103-104c but I saw 111c a couple of times when I pitted [emoji15] The compensation values in the ECU start backing off ignition timing when cool any temps reach over 100c so that plus the heat soaking of the engine would be why the power drops off. Going to look into how to get the bike running cooler - water wetter coolant has been mentioned, and I've seen replacement rads which are thicker and more efficient are available also
I've used water wetter in a Rotary Rx7 track car which rev'd and had temps very high and it seemed very effective. Is it a rule that race bikes have to have normal water only though?
Yeah I think it's a banned coolant in the racing world, but as I don't race I can't see why I couldn't use it, given most others on track are using standard coolant and non-race-prepped bikes
