Was out on my 1098 and it cut out on me. Checked Volts on the dash and it was 11.8, Got it started and kept cutting out. So ordered a new battery start the bike and the voltage gradually drops while the engines running, Put multimeter on the terminals and read the same as the dash. Zero output from the charging circuit. Checked the usual (30 Amp fuse, connections, earths etc.) no issues. Read a few posts about mosfet voltage regulator ordered that put it on bike still no output to the battery when engine running. Checked the voltage from the stator (yellow wires) seeing 30V AC consistent, slaved the old Voltage reg back in same issue no out put on the DC side. I'm a bit confused as where to go from here, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the reply, I've been a bit of an idiot, went out and rechecked the stator on continuity and I have a failure(beeps) on two of the windings, I'm assuming dead stator. Just been looking at how to change the stator and got too drop the oil to get LH case cover off, might as well give the bike a service while I'm at it. Not having much luck with this bike!
I had a few niggles with mine when I first got it (1098 too). Stick with it my friend - it will reward you once the gremlins are gone. I'd recommend Exact Start cables and the Misfit reg/rec when you have time/money. The former are a boon in the colder months for sure. Oh and during those colder months, keep it on an optimiser. Keep us posted!
Luckily last owner put exact starts on but didn't fit the boots right, so starter solenoid is a crusty rusty mess! Gave it a good clean and seems to be ok now. I've just ordered a new stator and the relocation kit for the mosfet reg. Can sort it all out on the next time i get back to the uk (end of July) Just working my way through it hopefully no more surprises!
So a little update... Dropped the oil, mad panic an absolute load of copper flakes in it. Read forums omg bearing failure...thought sod it I've got the new stator anyway ill fit it being as I've stripped the fairings off etc., coolant dropped, LH crankcase cover removed, and found the source of the copper. All but 2 of the rotor bolts had come loose/fallen out, rotor had basically destroyed the stator and wobbled around that much had elongated a few of the bolt holes on the rotor. I think as the rotor has a very strong magnet it attracted all the non copper bits too it, and after cutting filter open and dropping the gauze filter could only find copper flakes Thing is what to do now? rebuild flush the oil system and fit new filters and oil, or the same but flush oil cooler and lines or...split the cases completely and tear down rebuild the motor? Ill post some pics of the carnage when i can get them across from my phone. I've done just over 300 miles on the bike as I work overseas I've had it over a year now think I've got any comeback with the dealer i got it from? Oh and the bolts (not) holding the Rotor on are too short and have no traces of thread locker on them, disaster waiting to happen!
Oh dear, sorry to hear about your misfortune. I would think that new filters and flush the oil would be sufficient rather than split the cases. Obviously make sure you have retreived all the swarf and bolts. I myself have a recurring thought/worry whether I remembered to loctite the bolts on mine when I installed a new sprag assembly - pretty sure I did but 10% thinks I didn’t! Good luck with mending it.
Thanks for the reply's. Been busy ordering new/used stuff to do the repair, I'm up to about £450 with parts and consumables, at least my labor is free! Unfortunately it will have to sit till the new year as I'm back overseas end of next week. Stripped the oil cooler & lines off it, Flushed them through, and also an excuse to give it a clean and a touch up with some rattle can VHT, not much copper came out so I am hoping the gauze/spin off filter collected the most of the copper.. Ordered some flushing additive as well and some cheaper engine oil to flush it through with, and a jumbo tube of Thread locker!!!!
Green threebond and the buggers never coming loose. westcountrywindings in essex rewind stators, but not sure if this one is salvageable. Good luck.
hi, i think i have the same problem. can you remember what the ohms reading should be at the connector that goes into the rec/reg. i cannot start the bike because of the error code showing [ error can 38.0 ] .
When I fitted my exact kit I put 2 small holes through the lower side of both rubber boots. This was so the inevitable water that found its way in there could drain out. Followed by a healthy dose of acf50.
even the original equipment "boots" will do this and ditto boot on starter motor but corrosion due to trapped road water/moisture is almost a certainty here over the years, on virtually all models, even the fully-faired ones.
you have replied to a previous post on this subject. i was asking about the ohms reading at the stator
