Am I doing it wrong? Finishing the latest project-Monster S4R before getting it ready for sale. Just the belts to do, so completed that today. BUT A) the Cam locking tool from Podium Racing was poor, and didn’t fit correctly. In the end, I had to manually return the cam under tension to its correct position. B) it proved impossible to remove the cam tension pulleys as the frame prevented that. I hadn’t planned to renew them, but wouldn’t have been able to do so. C) how do I hold the large hex nut on the tension pulley whilst tightening the small securing nut? And no chance of using a torque wrench on the vertical cylinder due to frame proximity. Compromised with “feels tight to me” As for tensioning, I tried the Carbon Drive app, but settled for the 1/4 turn and the Allen key methods Have I missed something essential? Up for sale shortly after MoT.
I have one of those cam locking tools but it doesn't fit because the cams have been degreed and so sit slightly off the standard position, as such I just use my fingers to wiggle it in. Not ideal but works OK. For the locking nut I use a 'ground-away' ring spanner and, as you say can't use a torque wrench due to lack of space so need to guesstimate. As for removing the tensioners, I have replaced bearings etc. in mine and don't recall there being a problem with access but mine is a 916 and maybe the frame allows for more clearance?
The vertical cylinder tension pulley slides *almost* off the stud, but the frame intrudes. Perhaps the 996 engine is *bigger*! ‘Twas a bugger.
I ground a large, offset ring spanner specifically for the job but can fit a small (1/4") ratchet socket onto the nut so the frame must be further away on a 916. Presumably because a 916 was designed for that engine whereas the S4 had it 'shoe-horned' in as an after thought...
I Did my 916 belts very recently, and had no issue removing the tensioner pulley ,as for tightening up after tension i used an offset 22mm ring spanner on the cam nut with a 12mm ring spanner on the locking nut, to what i felt was tight enough and with the wave washer underneath it i'm happy it ain't gonna move. As stated above the Monster frame must differ from the 916 ,i found accessibility pretty good. I also used a cam locking tool off Ebay and had to grind part of it down a bit to fit properly - even then it wasn't great, and don't forget to put the bike back in neutral if you've used the back wheel to move the engine with the plugs out before striking it up or you might give yourself a heart in mouth moment!...don't ask how i know.
On 749 and 1098 I use a cut down box spanner that fits the vertical tensioner nut. I then hold that with an adjustable wrench. I can get a 1/4 in drive socket onto the locknut plus 1/4 in extension bar and then tighten with a torque wrench. Tried the cam lock tools on both 916 and 749/1098 but found it easier just to hold the pulley with fingers while slipping belt on.
No room for anything other than a spanner. The recessed large head means a cranked ring or open-enter, and the frame prevents me using a socket.
