Best Way To Run-in Your Engine

Discussion in 'Ducati General Discussion' started by Tur80, Mar 11, 2015.

  1. Hi, is there a right or wrong way to running in a brand new engine in, can the data logger be used to tell if engine has not been run in the correct way

    Your comments much appreciated
     
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  2. :upyeah:I have had a more than a few new ones of all types over the years : )
    Progressively giving them a bit more right the way upto at least 1k ...before ridding completely balls out!
    Each to their own but it's worked well for me..it becomes instinctive how much to give it when you have done a good few:upyeah:
     
  3. It takes 2.5 hours plus oil change. Heres the steps:

    1. Find one dyno
    2. Run motor on dyno, up and down the gears, increasing recs and overun for 30mins
    3 Stop motor and heat sink for 30 mins
    4 repeat step 2 (30 mins)
    5 repeat step 3 (30mins)
    6 repeat step 2 (30mins)
    7 Oil Chnage
     
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  5. That's a tad extreme for my Chinese 125 when i had just fitted a big bore kit though I believe?
     
  6. On road I've never done full throttle from day 1. But have had fresh big bore motors run in on the dyno without any trouble so I think it's down to your own peace of mind. My mate bought a brand new diesel Clio and first service was at 16000 miles with no specific running in procedure. I don't think it's a big an issue as maybe 40 years ago.
    If in doubt, follow manufactures guide lines.
     
  7. I tend to do first 600 miles under 6k revs then steadily increase the revs every trip out, I have done 7 new Ducati's this way and never had a problem.
     
  8. I've always followed the plenty of throttle with plenty of engine braking routine - not full throttle for the first few miles but plenty of on/off so that the rings see pressure both in acceleration and deceleration without keeping it too steady a speed.

    Seems to work Ok.
     
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  9. Like the idea duke .
     
  10. Thank you for your views as everyone has different techniques or methods on this topic, I may stick to the manufactures hand book in case anything was to happen, would want them coming back to say that I have abused it and its a get out clause for them.
     
  11. Good plan :upyeah:
     
  12. (Meridan) Triumph used to tell you to put a dot on the twist grip and one next to the twist grip corresponding to 1/8 throttle. Don't use more than this for the first 250 miles
    Then put a dot on there corresponding to quarter throttle - don't exceed till 500 miles.
    Don't exceed 3/4 till 750 miles and then full throttle after 1000.
    I'm sure tolerances are better now and oil but I expect the principle is still sound.

    Interestingly, American car types on reality programmes seem to favour special 'breaking-in' oil and believe that synthetic oil hampers the 'breaking in' process...
     
  13. must put my glasses on read title as

    best way to ruin your engine I am a dumbass:Banghead:
     
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  14. New machinery I work with uses crap oil to bed stuff in then onto synthetic. I have found rings don't like synthetic oil when new
     
  15. My 320d is on the same oil it was supplied with 18 months ago. Not due for a service till Autumn which will be 2 years.
    Doesn't seem to have used a drop...
     
  16. I've only ever run in one bike - the mighty MZ - and that didn't go too well. I was plodding away, about 5 miles from the shop, when a bloke on a Harley Sportster wazzed past. There's only so much shame a man can take, so I had to do him. So the running-in period for the MZ consisted of 5 miles of pottering followed by a damn good thrashing for 25 miles. 883cc's of prime American beef being reeled in by an eastern bloc shopping bike - I was literally squealing with excitement as I went past!
     
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  17. That's because car manufacturers aim for the fleet market and get their running costs down by going for longer service intervals. Fleet/lease cars will be changed before problems with crap oil or poor running in rear their heads. A few years down the line though...
     
  18. Running in with mineral doesn't sound good to me...
    Giving a new engine a thrash from the word go with crap oil = premature wear not running in!
    This started from racing bike hype..
    Also when you change you don't ever unless you flush get all of the crap stuff out so end up with a mix:eek:

    It's not all about piston rings..everything is tight and needs progressive running in up to full performance!

    Wether running in or not make sure that you warm the engine fully before giving it a handful and if ridding hard regularly change your oil and filter between services...it's cheap compared to excessive engine wear!

    Lastly I am right end of thread:p
     
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