1200 Brake Lever Travel

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by cmyers_uk, Jan 11, 2015.

  1. I have just bleed the front brakes at both front brakes and the master cylinder. I used a vacuum bleeder and put through at least 5 reservoir's full of fluid. Tightened each bleed nipple to 10nm. The brake pads are worn but still have some of the notch that shows when totally worn out. If i squeeze the front lever i can get it to touch the handle bar. The brakes appear to work fine but I find it disconcerting that the lever touches the bar. The pressure to do this is high with plenty of resistance. Is this normal , am I being paranoid , I am sure in the past I couldn't do this.

    Any advice appreciated.

    regards
    Chris
     
  2. If I pull mine hard the lever will just about touch the bar but in practice the wheel will lock up (well it would if the ABS didn't stop it) long before that happens.
     
  3. You will probably need to bleed at the ABS unit.
    Cover it in tissue and undo the banjo a little, treat it like a bleed nipple.
    You'll be amazed how much air is trapped there.....much worse on the rear circuit.
    I did a thread on this last year (or longer ago).
    Patented ABS rear bleed modification...or something similar.
     
  4. I wouldn't use a vacuum bleeder to bleed the air out once the fluid has been pulled through. From my experience, much better results achieved from the old fashioned method of a length of tube, a spanner, an old bottle and someone to squeeze the lever.

    Even those at the very top end of mechanicing use this method. Home Garage - Wrench Racer
     
  5. Agree with pumping the lever to bleed it out with a piece of pipe and a milk bottle on the nipple, do them one at a time and repeat.

    Also the seals in the master cylinder will relax if not used for a time, they are inflated by the fluid pressure so that the higher pressure means a tighter seal, use a cable tie or piece of inner tube on the lever to hold the brake on, if left overnight you should find less compression is possible. You don't need too much pressure just equivalent to steady braking. But you need to make sure that all air is expelled as per ACT's post above.

    If you don't know what you are doing make sure that you use the correct fluid as per the cap on the master cylinder, if you are using something different make sure that you know it is compatible with the seals and will mix with the old fluid - personally I wouldn't use anything other than the approved fluid although many do without problems.
     
  6. Thank you all , I'll try the old school aka the wife method she squeezes I clean up the mess ! IF that fails I'll try the bleed the abs unit .

    I'm happy with what I am doing and fluid types , I am just a bit of a worrier the bike stops fine , but I spend more time 'testing' it's braking than riding it the lever doesn't come back to handlebar when I brake just if I pull at traffic lights but it's disconcerting

    Thanks
    Chris
     
  7. I'd agree with the trick holding the brake lever full on with a strap or bungie cord overnight. If you follow this with a quick bleed of the master cylinder it makes it miles firmer.
     
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