hi everyone. i need to remove 2 bolts from the rear disk on my r1 . one is just a stud with no head (i think previous owner tried to drill it out) and second one has rounded allen grip. I've got one of those extractor reverse thread tools off ebay and no luck. I've looked allover the net and everyone make it look so easy when they take the cunts out, but i can't do it! what is the best way, can anyone tell me please? I've got a lot of desire but fuck all experience
I had a rounded allen socket on the rad guards on my SF. I got it out using easy-outs without further drilling but you must make sure you're using the right size, fit it into a tap wrench so you've got full control over it and tap it in as you turn or it will only tear the bolt head up even more. If either are accessible you can cut a slot with a Dremel and use an old fashioned impact driver with a screwdriver bit. This is very effective for breaking thread adhesive. I don't know what Yams are like but Ducati are a bloody nuisance with the amount of iron-hard thread lock they use. I'm sure it damages threads.
Watch it using easy-out extractors, 'cos if it breaks off, then you could well be in the sh*t.......a drill bit won't touch them and if that breaks as well.......
Before attacking it with easy outs etc, I'd be inclined to try and extract the bolt with the allen head first. Use some decent mole / vice grips and try backing it out. Sometimes (and this is a little counterintuitive) try tightening the offending bolt a little first. By the sounds of it once this bolt is out the disc should be free leaving you with a stud, to which you may be able to remove again using the grips. If it fails or shears cut it flush and drill it out.
I don't use Loctite on brake discs anymore because of potential thread damage. It builds up in the thread in the wheel and even a good quality tap won't get it out properly. I just check the torque every so often.....takes a few minutes.
As above I am not sure what the heads of the bolts look like but using a star bit of the right size and hitting it in with a hammer has worked for me many a time. The star shape really bites into the bolt and gives normally enough purchase to get the offending bolt out. I would not recommend easy outs at all, they are not "easy" to use at all and if one of those breaks then a cobalt drill or spark erosion is the only way that it can be got out and they break very easily at times.
reside yourself to getting a new rear disc and as above grind off the remaining heads remove the disc then you'll have a stud to get a bit of purchase on......if you are careful you could retain the disc just need to be accurate with power tools...
With rounded allen bolts hammer a slightly larger star drive (torques) into it - works every time for me...
I got into the habit years ago of replacing chocolate OE fasteners with stainless whenever I removed them. They don't seize with corrosion like mild steel and they're harder. Special or high stress fasteners which have to be original get a squirt of copper spray. Like Arquebus I don't use thread lock. Its no hardship to check nuts and bolts are tight. I have to say I think the quality of Ducati fasteners is generally poor. Those on my 2013 Speed Triple were vastly better. Early Triumphs had a bit of a reputation for poor finishes but the factory listened and really made up for it - Ducati should do the same. Stainless used as standard wherever possible and very good quality. And I like the contrast of stainless fasteners against black engine cases and carbon parts. Shame the otherwise lovely Speed didn't go like Streetfighter......
Assuming they are 8mm bolts it might be easier to use a 10mm diameter drill and drill the heads off............the drill should just about cut the bolt head without damaging the disc holes........if it doesn't fall off use an old wood chisel against the head and whack it carefully......the head should then come off, leaving enough stub for a Mole grip or small Stilson to get a hold. I had a similar problem with my belt tensioner bolts........once the head was off and the tensioner was out of the way, I undid the stubs with my fingers........thankfully they weren't Loctited. It's nearly always the low head socket cap bolts because the commonest ones only have a 5mm socket.....the better ones have a 6mm socket, but they are pretty hard to find. I have just had to remove four cheese low head disc bolts using the same method as Exige mentions.....it normally works and managed to do it without taking the damn wheel out again.
If you have enough head on the offending allen bolt, use a chizel and hammer.Dont go mental with the hammer, just tap.Its worked for me in the past.
If the bolts have been threadlocked get a blowtorch on em it'll destroy the adhesive but be careful not to destroy ought else
weld a nut onto the head of the rounded bolt heat will loosen it then carefully loosen using a spanner on nut or if enough room a piece of flat bar drill hole big enough to go over busted bolt then weld bolt to bar and loosen using leverage turning the bar worked on most broken damaged bolts I have had to remove
Try cutting a new groove into it, then use an impact gun... Failing that I'd drill the top(s) off; once the disc is off then the tension should be reduced and you can then try other suggestions; such as welding a nut on to the top and getting some purchase on that...
Funny you should say that........just got some better quality bolts than wot I already have...........I needed more than a blowlamp and torx bits to get the cheese ones shifted...........In fact I chucked all 18 away. Even stoned down a good quality allen key at the end from 5.5mm to 5.2mm, cut off a length and fitted the 5.5mm end into a 5.5mm socket with a 1/4" drive shank on it............Thumped that in as soon as I knew the 5.0mm bit was going to slip.......that worked. Ran M8 tap through all threads as I always do. I only re-check torque 'cos I don't always use Loctite.
It's worth noting that "easi-outs" are only designed to take out things that have snapped off through being over-tightened - they very rarely work on things that have siezed due to corrosion...
to add to all the good advice above, the rounded head is easy you have several options: hammer imperial cheap star key or allen into it. cut a broad slot in it and use a screwdriver bit to unscrew cut or file flats either side and use either a spanner or mole grips. The stud: if you have stud sticking out the slot or the flats will work. don't bother trying to drill out, and I think even a turbo socket might not be able to get enough purchase. Depending on how much you have protruding I could lend you a stud extractor. get your local bike shop to weld something to the end of the stud. Stay away from easy outs if you can at all help it. Also I'll second Al's advice and not use thread lock. Its not used anymore at oem build level and where it is used its mostly non critical fasteners that you can't get enough torque on or that are subject to vibration all the time. If you're paranoid about torque relaxation use a product like Torque-seal to spot the fastening. Keep calm and drink tea!
