I'm shortly going to change the front sprocket on the 1098, do I need a specific spanner to tighten/loosen the rear hub, or is there something generic that would work. Thanks
Not to tighten/loosen the hub but to rotate it ideally you need the correct C spanner (the 916 tool kit had one in it) it's not essential though a "whittled timber poking stick" and mallet will do the job if you're careful, just don't use a sharp screwdriver and hammer as it can chew up the castellations on the hub
Yup just google 1098 chain adjustment spanner or do the same on the bay of fleas, you'll be spoiled for choice. Start at around £10 GBP or possible even less. If the chain hasn't been adjusted much in the past, or its been a long time, the eccentric hub may be reluctant at first to rotate. I'd deffo go the C spanner route but as @Tobytyke states it is possible to use something that impact on the cutouts on the hub edge, as already stated use something that is preferably blunt and soft in order to avoid damage.
Many thanks for the help guys, will look at getting a spanner, from what I've read it's not too difficult to change the sprocket yourself, I've got a long breaker bar and a big torque wrench. I guess setting the chain tension is the hardest part?
Both jobs are reasonably easy just a bit of a ball ache undoing the nuts. If a numpty like me can.....................anybody can (and I have). Follow the instructions for tensioning the chain per the owner's manual and you'll be good to go. Don't overthink it!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why are you changing? If its shagged then prob the chain and rear sprok is nfg. If it is to fit a smaller one then you may need to remove the chain because there is no room to pull the larger front sproket off past the chain.
It's to fit a 14tooth front sprocket, from what I've read you can slacken off the chain enough to remove and then refit
I'm awaiting my 14T today so should be having a go this evening. My other bikes have always allowed removal of the front sprocket by lifting the chain from the rear; hope this is the case.
Did it at lunchtime. With the wheel moved forward & the chain lifted from the rear sprocket, it is indeed possible to remove the front sprocket by lifting the chain away. Its fiddly & I had to remove the clutch slave for more clearance but easy enough.
Also to get the sprocket nut off did you leave it on the ground with the rear brake on rather than leaving in gear?
If you mean the spanner to loosen the chain (move the wheel forward), then yes (eBay cheap thing but worked perfectly). My nut came off without much fuss. My bike was on a lift so I put in in 1st & used a strap to apply the rear brake; it came off easy with a breaker bar. Having the bike on the floor is also fine & more secure if huffing & puffing is required.
Many thanks, have just ordered one, hopefully my Oberon will arrive shortly and I can combine the two jobs.
With regards chain tension, I see it should be measured with the bike on the side stand. I did mine with the bike on a paddock stand on a lift but I'm wondering if it makes much difference. It seems like quite a tight deflection at 33-35 mm so I thinking my chain will be slightly on the slacker side as it was tensioned with a little more weight on the rear; if so, I'm okay with slightly too slack as opposed to too tight. What a pickle! Its the 2 mm tolerance; seems it needs to be pretty accurate; I have known bikes have a tolerance of 10 mm. :Bookworm:
