The clutch nut itself seems to be very shallow and most sockets seem to have a chamfered edge - no good for this task. The chamfered area means that the socket can't grip the nut correctly. What socket should I use and where can I get one from?
One solution is to find a local engineering workshop and ask to have the chamfer on the edge of the socket turned off on a lathe, it's what I did with a socket for my rear wheel nut. Should only take the turner about 5 mins.
Wrap insulting tape around the socket to accurately mark how much to remove; clamp it in a vice and with a good blade, hacksaw of the chamfer (you will see if you are going off-line by the teeth snagging the tape)......finish off with a decent grinder (or files). NB! Use a 6 flat socket rather than one of 12(?) point ones.....less chance of slip.
Would this be suitable? I know it doesn't adhere to Arquebus' advice regarding the number of sides.. Halfords Advanced Professional 1/2 Female Drive Metric Socket Size 32mm 12pt 42 | eBay
Think I'd be giving it a go. Can't be doing with all this "£make your own tools" stuff. well, except in extreem circumstances, anyway. Just go steady - first sign it's slipping and back off or it'll be goosed and then you really will have a job on. MICK..
Why not just follow the advice and save some money at the same time? Laser 1705 Impact Socket Rack 1/2" Drive - Socket - Air Impact 1/2" Drive 32mm T | eBay You can easily grind the chamfer off if necessary too.
Just checked my socket - it's a bi-hex but has never been a problem removing the clutch nut. I do this fairly often as my 749 and 916 both have slipper clutches that need to be regreased.
If the nut is quite thin (I don't know, not attempted to look at the clutch, but as the OP is worried about the chamfer of the socket.......) the chance of a 12 point slipping or buggering the nut is high.....
It is quite thin however the bihex is fine if you make sure it is correctly located and you have one hand at the socket end making sure it doesn't slip off line. Normal care when undoing a tight nut basically.
There's an old saying involving workmen and their tools... Basically, if one is inept, don't attempt the job.
If you're buying sockets for large applications, go for Draper Expert range - available in both standard and bi-hex, Chrome Vanadium and nice thick walls, but they have virtually no (~1mm) edge so you don't need to get them turned down. You can pick up most sizes for under £20 and they'll last longer than you will, and much better than those shitty aluminium double-sided things that aren't worth the scrap value of the alu they're made from, let alone 4x the cost of the right socket! The only problem is they're 3/4" drive - which they should be given the load applications - but you can easily use a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter which should cost you a fiver, or under a tenner if bought in a pack of adapters.
Thanks Antonye, my existing 32mm is a Draper (chamfered edge) but I've just looked on the Draper tools site and all their 32mm sockets seem to be the same. If you can tell me which specific socket has the 1mm edge I'll purchase the exact same. This is the only socket I can find which *appears* to be chamfer-free. Lisle 39700 1/2-inch Drive Axle Nut Socket - 32mm | eBay I've resigned myself to having to make my own, or perhaps Ducati sell a specific socket for £100 or something daft. Thanks to all for the help and advice.
You could always look at Imperial / AF sized sockets.......You may find one that is nice and tight on the nut.
I was looking at the 41mm socket last night, in my hand, when I wrote that. Here's a pic of the 41mm off t'internet - you can see that there's hardly any edge to it. I'm not sure if the same can be said for the size you're looking at, and sometimes the pics on t'internet are not very helpful as, or are stock images, so it can be hard to tell.
