Hello i've changed the bearing in my clutch cover plate today following the guide on the forums, everything went fine until i pulled the lever back at the end of the rebuild to find the clutch is not moving at all , the bolts are hand tight as advised and i did not pull the lever at any point during the rebuild. should the lever have been pulled in during the build ?
Did you withdraw the clutch push rod when you took the pressure plate off ? I know on the 748/9*6 family there were 2 lengths of push rod. After market slave cylinders come with a small extension piece. If this is the case with the DS you might have displaced the small extension piece. If not, I'm sorry I don't know enough about the DS to suggest anything else. Andy
pretty sure nothing was misplaced i've loosened the bolts a little and movement has returned if i tighten up to hand tight as guides seem to say the clutch is locked in the closed position . maybee i have read the guide wrong how tight should they be ? and is it with the lever pulled in or out
if you are just changing the pressure plate there is no need to touch the clutch lever or the slave cylinder. After removing the clover, just undo the 6 crews and it will come off. When you do them back up make sure you do them in a crisscross pattern a bit at a time so the cover goes on squarely. From memory they should only be about 6nm, they are aonly small so don't go mad or you will snap a stem, the spring pressure stops them undoing. If you have a standard-non slipper clutch the pressure plate needs to be on the correct position. One of the stems will have a notch out of it and on the back of a plate one of the holes has an arrow/triangle, these need to match up. I'd check this first. Good luck.
did them up with a small allen key just hand tight as forum suggests so hope i havent broken anything didnt apply any pressure didnt touch the clutch during change
in same as i took of only problem is what pressure to apply to bolts there is no resistance until clutch is in fully locked possition
Does the lever move to the grip but the clutch not disengage, or is the lever solid and won't move? If the lever is solid, you've done something wrong with the springs and their caps, such that the springs are coil-bound when the bolts through them are tight. Are the caps reversed?
It's possible to have the pressure plate slightly out of alignment, so it doesn't engage and move on the splines. Loosen the bolts off to take the pressure off the springs and give the pressure plate a jiggle until it drops onto the splines. OR
you do them up tight so the bolt stops turning, just go easy. I use a T handle allen so you can't put to much pressure on.
how notched is your basket? - if you have got unlucky with everything lining up that might stop it. Also - is your stack height right?
Hello the clutch plates are admittedly quite worn will check the bolts again the lever is hard, if I back the bolts out a little movement returns, is there a ball bearing I might of misplaced? If the clutch height was low would it allow this to happen? Thanks
You say all you've done is to replace the bearing in the pressure plate and touched nothing else, so the stack height won't be affected or have any different effect. Same for notches. I still reckon you haven't got the pressure plate properly on the splines - have you checked??
If it's worn, then it's not likely to be stack height. sounds to me like it could be a missing element from the mechanical link from slave cylinder to clutch.
Check the plate is on the right position. My bet is the arrow on the back is not lined up with the post with the notch out of it.
