620 Clutch

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by barryw33, Mar 28, 2017.

  1. Is there a proper way of bleeding the clutch?

    Bike used daily for commute so desperately need this sorting asap

    Any easy to follow steps greatly appreciated.
     
    #1 barryw33, Mar 28, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 3, 2017
  2. Have you bled it at the slave cylinder too?
     
  3. This is a 999 one but they're all pretty much of a muchness, yours will be in the same place

    img_1010-2.jpg

    Bleed it in the traditional way of pipe from bleed valve to bottle of fluid, loosen valve pull clutch lever & hold, tighten valve, release clutch lever, loosen valve and repeat...repeat....repeat no more air bubbles job done :upyeah: Make sure you keep the reservoir topped up
     
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  4. Dot 4
    Brake fluid
     
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  5. If the slave does not bleed properly take it off and bleed it "uphill" by holding it in a higher mounting position. Sometimes on the odd occasion you can get a bit of air still trapped in the line.
     
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  6. It's pretty easy as I replaced my slave last week. Since the reservoir on the handlebar is so small, each time you bleed check it so you don't run out and introduce new air in the system. Brake fluid is corrosive so clean up well on any bike surface. I put a rag underneath both ends.
     
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  7. Whereabouts in WY are you ? I'm local and work in Leeds, give us a shout if you need a hand
     
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  8. Mityvac top and bottom bleed valves .
     
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  9. Must be loads of stuff on UTube
     
  10. Sounds like somethings gone wrong with the plates or pressure plate if you can sit there revving it but not moving in gear?.

    If it was air in the clutch it would be hard to select neutral and creep forward on gear with the lever pulled fully in (yours sounds like the opposite problem?).
     
  11. It is confusing but he tried to bleed it at the roadside with no extra fluid, so if he started with slip, he's going to have added drag at the other end.
    Hard to know what the original problem was...
     
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  12. Barry, please could you be super-clear because what you are saying is still confusing. Usually, when you say a clutch engages, it means the clutch lever is released until the plates start to grip each other and drive is taken up.

    You seem to be using engage to mean the pushrod is pushed by the slave cylinder and releases the plates.

    Please clarify
     
  13. Correct, he is not been to clear with his description

    If he can't take up any drive the clutch pack is dis-engaged i.e. (separated), could be a stuck push rod, but I would have thought unlikely knowing how much force a clutch pack needs to dis-engage

    It sounds more like a clutch failure I'm afraid, and would need a strip down to investigate
     
  14. I think we need a really clear description before we can offer advice.
     
  15. Presumably this bike does have a dry clutch??
     
  16. No, all 1200's are wet clutch
     
  17. What you are describing seems to be severe clutch slip.
    Pumping the clutch lever shouldn't affect clutch slip as the hydraulic system is there to act against the clutch springs and separate the plates.
    Something else must be going on.
    One question - is your oil level window really mlky?
     
  18. Not mayonnaise fouling the clutch plates then.
    Used to have a wet clutch SS but I'm sure it was very different to your multi.
    You had to take the whole side casing off the SS. Does the multi clutch cover look integral or separate??
     
  19. My wet clutch SS used to get clutch slip if the right side cover got too much condensation in it. This caused mayonnaise which the clutch would whip up.
    Cure was to get the motor hot and remove the filler cap to let the water vapour out.
     
  20. Can't see why pumping would help a slipping clutch unless something is somehow displaced
     
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