Hi All, Looking for some advice, I'm considering a 1098r currently advertised at The Bike Specialist, is there anything in particular I need to be aware of, regarding the bike rather than the seller, and does anyone know this particular bike: Thanks in advance, Fraser.
It’ll be overpriced so haggle. Primary issue is the plastic petrol tank which has a reputation for swelling due to water absorption from ethanol petrol. Look at the gap between the tank and the steering damper bracket mounted on the frame. There should be a good gap, anything less than 2 to 3 mm suggests the tank has swelled. A common trick on the 1098R is to put a washer behind the damper bracket, so have a good look. Another common issue is if a quick shifter has been fitted, they are often poorly set up and the gearbox suffers, badly. The standard slipper clutch has an aluminium basket, the metal tangs on the compression plates wear the clutch body, don’t expect it to last big miles, when I had mine, average of 6000 miles before it needed changing. Check the mileage declared at MoT with the service intervals, it used to be 7500 miles or annually, belts every 15,000 miles or 2 years. Belts are now a 5 year interval. Desmo service (valve shims) every 15,000 and is very expensive circa £1500, so if the mileage is close, make sure it’s done or you get the money knocked of the price. Wheels are mega light and easily damaged by tyre changes. The seat bump is locked in place by a miniature 1/4 turn fairing clip, it is stupid money to replace as is the bump stop. Even with a low mileage, it could have been tracked which is not a bad thing but if it has, it should have had shorter service intervals. Pound to a pinch, the Öhlins (forks and shock) will need a service which could set you back £500 depending on who does it. Awesome bike, agricultural by V4 standards but can be ridden seriously quickly. Definitely a bucket list bike. Andy
A beautiful bike with the benefit of the 1198 engine. At that price have you looked into insurance cover?
Andy, thanks for the quick reply and advice, the bikes covered 5300miles, so I'll be looking at the service history regarding a new clutch etc....my last 'R' was a 996r, so I'll be expecting a bit of a different animal to ride....., thanks again
Among general checking it's worth looking at the adjustable stops and the central steering lock tab on the frame for damage. It's easily bent even if bike drop is not severe.
@Fraggle1011, Underwriters are leaving the motorcycle business, 3 have ceased taking new business this year that I know of. Your challenge, is insuring the value of the bike rather than the performance. It’s good advice to check before committing to the purchase. Andy
If you can find an decent cost insurer they will insist on something like Motorbikes valued at £20,000 or over, have a BikeTrac Fitted
I had a 1098s for a couple years, an amazing machine. Very planted & fast, fast! Definitely take it for a good test ride and check for all the obvious things... and be aware as it's not uncommon for some to occasionally cut out when shutting off the throttle. Mine only did it a couple times, apparently some do it regularly. I do miss my 1098, but I found it too much for the deteriorating roads where I live. Happy shopping
The 1098S is a completely different bike to the 1098R. Whereas the 1098S has the quite brutal power delivery of the 1098 engine the R has the more refined 1198 engine. You would be better comparing it to an 1198S but even better.
saw that also but wasn't sure what it was! - not my bike, just found it on Google to show in detail. I still have one of these Fraggle, and another thing you will want to do if/when you get one, is check the Regulator for function and/or overheating, and if the bike becomes a "keeper" then many of us on here* would recommend upgrading to a more sturdy aftermarket replacement, like a Shindengen FH012, FH020 or even later. It's the standard location of the Regulator that is the problem because it gradually struggles to cope with too much heat. Probably fine on the 5K bike but worth remembering. Also the water radiator has a design problem due to being slightly flimsy. Again, it takes a few years/miles for it to develop, but the matrix starts to slowly fracture at the top left of the rad until a leak develops. This might seem hard to believe, but a Chinese replacement is the best solution* here - it's not only far cheaper, but usually sturdier**!. * Many threads on this Forum to help with this. ** as many are available, there is no single brand i could recommend here, and the radiators are often sold by agents rather than the actual manufacturer, so because of this, it's hard to guarantee a trouble-free experience, but out of the three i've bought, only one had a fixing dimension problem, and the seller was first-class at fixing the problem.
I can second the reg/reg and rad info. My rad pinholes top left and the aftermarket one is better quality for sure. Likewise with reg/rec. Changed 4 years ago and hassle free. Also consider beefier starting cables from someone like Exact. Starting is less problematic.
