Morning all. So it seems the Multi is starting to show its Latin heritage over the last few weeks... 1. the left handlebar switches are irratic, left indicator only works occasionally and the horn and lower menu button also have a habit of stopping working 2. the ignition key got stuck in the pillion seat lock and took about 5 mins of wiggling to encourage it to come back out... at one point the whole lock barrel was coming out... bit worrying anyone else having / had these issues and any ideas on how to fix them? Still the best bike I've ever owned though and I'm converting a ZX10 riding friend after letting him try it a couple of times he's selling the ZX and searching out a suitable Multi...
Hi the switchgear and lock barrels benefit greatly from a squirt of WD 40 or equivalent. The switches tend to dry out a little during use and washing the bike also tends to flush the grease way. After washing and drying, a little squirt of WD needs to be applied to the starter, indicator menu headlight and horn button and worked in by operating them. Youll find they work without any further problems. As far as the barrels go, stick the small red tube into the mechanism and give it a short squirt until it runs out then wipe the excess away. Tick the key in and operate it a few times, again it will work with no problems. Same appllies to the fuel tank barrel. This "issue" applies to any bike not just Ducatis or in fact Multistradas, its a good practice on each and every bike. Personally I do the switches and barrels after every Third washing session, keeps things sweet.
Thanks for the reply... I didn't want to try that without asking, I thought WD40 might damage the key mechanism, will it not dissolve the lubrication? I thought locks used some special carbon lube or something? I will attacke the switches with it tonight and hopefully they will be sorted though, thanks
Can I ask? how old is the bike? It may be that the key / barrel issue is down to newness. You are right in that locks do hold a certain amount of lubricant, in which case if the bike is fairly new, you can employ a slightly different tactic to ease the lock, in that a tiny squirt of WD applied directly to the key blade and operate the lock a few times. I can assure you that will help. If your worried about getting WD all over the key straight from the can, find a small plastic container, gently spray the WD into it and dip the key blade.
It's a '10 model so its probably just a lack of lubrication as you say. I will give the WD40 a try tonight and hopefully it will be fine, the fuel one is a bit sticky too these days so Ill give it a once over as well. There was a point on Sunday morning when I thought I might have to try to ride home with the key stuck in the pillion lock! Thank goodness for the keyless system...
Yup, WD40 sorts it out. Worth carrying a small can on any long tours as prolonged exposure to rain can get all the switchgear to act erratically. One my last trip, the ignition started to play up, not firing up when asked (embarrassing when at the front of a ferry!), however, that turned out to be a flat key battery !
I've got a tiny little can of lock de-icer I bought in Norway a couple of years ago that has a kind of key shaped prong that you push into the key slot and when it hits the bottom it squirts the liquid down slots in the prong and into the lock mechanism. I use it to lubricate all the locks on the various bikes I own because according to the bullshit on the can it not only clears ice but it lubricates the lock as well.
There aint no lube inside the barrel, just little bits of metal....WD40 will do wonders to sticking tumblers and springs.....
WD40 = no Please use this for rusty bolts. Always keep locks dry, use graphite lock lubricant. On switches use electrical contact cleaner. WD40= light oil and white spirit, save a fortune and make it yourself :biggrin:
Aircon...youre far to clever for me....OK no WD40 lets use the graphite stuff! just wanted to point out that there was no built in lube!
Graphite grease for locks yes, but the electrical contact cleaner should be used with caution. I used some on the switchgear of my old SACS GSXR and the buttons slowly turned from a nice satin black to a horrid powdery white. It was to agressive for the plastics used.
This is what I was worried about... I've managed to get my hands on some "special lube" designed for switches through my work (I work for a large car dealership) which I have been assured is the best stuff for the job... I was told not to used WD40 by the mechanic, something about a risk of heating up and melting something? As for the locks I've pumped some WD into them last night, seem to be working ok but the fuel tank lock is still a bit reluctant?
TBH there is no hard and fast rules for any of this. WD 40 was a suggestion as it is a good general lube that has happily worked for me with no issues. If the fuel tank lock has always been stiff it sounds like it needs a little more bedding in. If its getting worse it sounds like something could be breaking down and it may be worth a check over. Either way the issues you have highlighted are in no way major just need regular attention .
Ambersil Graphite Lock Lube - Door/Ignition Locks | eBay Flush the locks out with aerosol brake cleaner then use the above. Job done.
Be aware that some early 2010 bikes suffered issues with the switch gear on both sides. I had mine replaced under warranty (down button was getting stuck, so cleared trips and stopped others working). The later bikes have a different start/stop switch, not sure its a major redesign but definitely different.
