Not sure if this technical enough for here but I am thinking of fitting the 1/4 Dzus clips on my 1198, I saw on one website talking about drilling the fairing ? Has anyone fitted them on here ?? do I need to drill the fairings at all ? Can I not just use the sliders like in this picture ?
You may find that the hole drilled for the OE fixing is slightly smaller than the diameter of the Dzus fixing. Andy
That’s a good point, depending on size of existing bolt. If they are critical ones (like the bottom where it joins two sides) imho it’s worth taking the hoop in the direction of tightening. That way, less likely to come out (has been known, especially if not quite locked home)
All of the kits I have seen have mentioned drilling some of the fairing holes to a slighly large diameter.
Depends if road or track fairing. My 848 road needed some on the lower fasteners, but ok on the upper. And the track fairing was fine
I had to drill out the mounting tags on the frame on my 1098 to allow the captive part to slip on. I used the OEM fixings when using the OEM panels and quarter-turn fixings when using track-day fairings. I don’t thing it is worth the trouble to use quarter-turn fixings to join the upper and lower OEM panels; I always romoved them as a pair. Also there are places where there is insufficient clearence behind the panel join to allow the captive part to be fitted.
Thanks everyone I only asked because some kits come with these and the rivets for 3mm hole. As for size I believe the 17mm length ones are plenty long enough. Well that’s what she said.
Avoid the, if you can. FYI if a bolt is too long, add some gaffa to the bold head or (for neater finish) plastic washers. You need a snug fit
Ah, that’s entirely different. I have used the slide on spring backing plate on the 1098 body work I’m using as track body work on my 1098R and in all but a few instances there is room for the backing plate. The odd 1 or 2, I made a slight modification to accomodate the backing plate. Andy
My experience of the riveted type tends to come when it’s semi permanently fixed. Seat unit for example, where you don’t want the female moving about at all
IIRC the reason I never went for these on the 1098R was that I couldn't find a kit with black fasteners. I didn't fancy the stainless / chrome ones.
I want to avoid the rivet ones @Android853sp Did you replace all the fairing screws with the slide on springs ?I am looking to do top and bottom of fairing I think total is 16 fasteners.
Ditto for Kurvy Girl. Fitted them to my 1098S and had to drill out the the tabs on the frame to accept the larger diameter DZUS bolts for the upper side fairings. Kit also included some cam bolts in place of the stock fasteners for the inboard section under the nose. IIRC I did have to open up the holes in the fairing a little. I ended up changing out the cheese head DZUS bolts in the kit, for some proper scalloped head DZUS fasteners which were the style used by Ducati up to the 998 series. These are a much more flush design due the low profile heads and look a million times better. Pro Bolt sell them but they are not cheap. I had mine 18 carat gold plated (mad yes I know) as I was not a fan of the "plain" stainless steel ones and did not want to have them zinc passivated. Anyhoo, here is what they looked like.
I used allen-head quarter-turn fasteners to avoid issues with the ‘D’ rings rubbing against the panels.
@Topolino were those brass colour to begin with? I have a bunch of the old 916 ones that I bought and look very similar to your plated ones?
