Hi Having just got my second-hand 803 Sled I was in the process of checking it over and have come across a slight problem with the chain being a tad slack. The chain side marker is at 4.25 and the disc side marker is at 4.00. So I thought I would just twist the chain side up to the same 4.00 marker ........ That is where we came across the problem of stuck and I do mean stuck axel nuts (both sides). No amount of grunting is shifting these swine's. So I just wanted to check the obvious, this being ...... They are Righty Tighty and Lefty Loosey Nuts and not the other less common ones ? I am currently soaking them in a mixture penetration oil and WD40 overnight and will try again after I have the answer. Thank you Mt Frustrated
Sounds like the PO didn't know about torque figures. You may need an impact driver, and yes, they'll be lefty-loosey
Thanks for the conformation on the anti clockwise undo Keith Just going out to it in about 30mins to give it another go. Will dig out my old impact driver somewhere in the bottom of one of my tool boxes.
Mate found out the hard way that on push bikes that isn’t always the case. Stripped threads ain’t no fun……especially on top line Campag chain sets…..
..could be wrong in this instance, but often find tyre fitters were last to do these up, and "some" of them err on the tight side/don't consider torque figure for that bike. SSSA nuts i can understand as not so straightforward but on a twin-arm swinger.. Fingers crossed it ends ok, i'm sure you know that socket needs to be full-hex (if it is a conventional "nut") and an electric impact gun (as Keith said) has to work on this.
This asks more questions than it answers. Chain guard off to remove the rear wheel WTAF? Studded tyres?
it's a sad fact that ambiguity is hard to avoid, it's really difficult to nail down and communicate all of the correct things, in all of the colours, in exactly the right sequence today. Video was included as a general guide, and at least confirms how the back axle fixing goes together.
That’s all they can be Chris a guide. It’s the number plate holder/chain guard that gets removed. I’m still no closer to solving the studded tyres, it may have to remain a mystery known only to the YouTuber.
Someone who demonstrates initial undoing of any nut/bolt with a torque-wrench or any other ratchet spanner is firmly on ignore! ...and that music... However - all done in a good faith by @Chris
I’m beginning to suspect it is actually Chris doing the spannering in this clip, a little bit of clixk baiting….
My new Torque Wrench arrived about an hour ago. A Beast of a Draper capable of 230Nm, so that is what I set it to and a good firm even pulling motion and the bolt is free. Tomorrows job is now clear to me along with the Exhaust clamp that came today as well......... Yipee.
