Sign.. Another day another problem. When I got the bike it would turn over for ever until I gave it some throttle. Now it doesn't turn over at all it just makes a clicking noise and then after about 40 seconds it finally starts to make the cranking noise and I give some throttle and it starts. I charged it with my optimate 3 battery tender and it's showing green which means the battery is healthy and the same thing happened again after I unplugged it. I left it to warm up and after about 5-10min it shut off and I had to start it again. What's interesting is if I start it from warm after riding it I don't hear the click it cranks as normal. I done some research and in thinking starter relay or starter motor ?? Thanks
How healthy is the battery? How old is the battery? Has the battery been idle all winter? Sounds like a duff battery to me if the engine starts fine when warm means that the bike has had time to put some amps into the said battery.
I can't say as I bought the bike a few months ago and the owner didn't seem to know much. But it was very dirty and dusty so I'm guessing it was sitting for most of winter. But I have been riding it since and this is the first it's made a clicking noise and no crank? Also the battery tender says is fine. Bearing all that would you still say battery?
I'd buy/borrow a multimeter and find out what the battery has in it with ignition off, with it on, when you press the button and if and when it starts etc. Without them figures, we're pissing in the wind a bit at this stage.
Both numbers are good. Clicking is usually either the battery or the starter solenoid. As it has enough juice in the battery, I'd be moving down the route of the solenoid first.
It's a part that wouldn't be much. I'm not sure in all honesty if they're easy to test as such. What is slightly weird is that it's usually an all or nothing failure, they either work or they don't, so I could easily be barking up the wrong tree.
This bikes managed to surprise me constantly. If it's aloft cheaper than a battery I will test that just incase
A click is usually a good sign with the solenoid/contactor as it means the magnetic switch parts working. I would have a close look at the starter motor cables & connectors and make sure they're good. To check the solenoid you need to locate it (side of the battery support) disconnect it stick a multimeter across the HT side which should be normally open circuit, then apply 12V to the other side (this is what happens when you press the starter button) it should click and give you a dead short on the HT side (this is how power gets to the starter motor)
Hmm just went to start it to leave work I notice went I put ignition on after 30secs headlight come on but bike still was clicking until I stood it up right off side stand..
Keep trouble shooting. I don't think you've got the answer yet. How confident are you of using a piece of wire to bypass sidestamd switch?
Oddly enough the side stand switch came shorted out already. I actually prefer it so I was going to order a switch at one point. Could it be what ever he used to short it is working it's way lose? Also just noticed there is no pattern any more even after a warm start it's random now and have the bike up right makes no diference. The headlight still takes about 30 secs to turn on after the ignition is on
This is getting very interesting. Sounds to me like you have a short! Can you find it without starting the bike? Why did the previous owner bypass the side stand switch?
What do you mean find it with out starting the bike? And I have no information from previous owner but I no the owner before was an Olympian and had to sell it because he wasn't allowed to ride apparently and it had a power commander performance exhausts etc. it was also a cat D so I'm guess he either had it on the track or as a cheap repair. And speaking of short I did drop the bike on the left hand side thinking the side stand was down. I hadn't used it since due to another issue so I didn't put the 2 together but if it is a short that could be the cause of it maybe
I can't understand why there'd be a need to short the side stand switch other than if it was knackered. The 848 will start with stand down. A green light on the optimate isn't that reliable as to the condition of the battery. All it shows is that the voltage is present. It can't give an indicator as to if the battery has enough energy stored to fire the bike up. I'd try a new battery, or get the existing one properly tested. Ecu controls the lighting. It turns them off when starting to minimise power losses. Once the ecu knows the bike is running, it turns them back on.
