Diy Chain Flare Tool

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by sizor, Apr 19, 2016.

  1. Hi,

    Bought a new chain and chain breaker to get rid of the old factory chain .Anyway I've fitted the new chain but I can't think of a way to flare the connector. Any clues ???
     
  2. My chain breaking tool came with a flare tool.
    How about a ball bearing and hammer.
     
  3. Buy the proper tool if you want piece of mind.................although, I would be quite happy riding a bike with the correct horseshoe split link............
     
  4. image.jpeg



    but then again what would a motley crew of hill climbers know when up against a god-like eminence of knowledge on a Forum such as this?

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg
     
    • Funny Funny x 2
  5. Nothng wrong with split links if used properly.............we used them on our outfits......TZ350, ZX10, ZZR1100, GSXR1100.............never had a chain break or a split link fail.................other things failed (clutch exploded on the TZ350 while I was over the back studying the clutch case at about 100mph).......but never a chain.
     
  6. There are a lot of look a likey chain riveting tools that are copies of the DID for not too much dosh that's what I go for

    I have the DID, tool and it was expensive and does not appear to be anything special

    Demon Tweeks £29, probably cheaper out there is you hunt around

    Warrior Heavy Duty Chain Riveting Vice | Demon Tweeks
     
  7. I've seen a few of the cheapo tools and reckon most are fine with the riveting of the link, where they fall down (and apart) is breaking the old chain.

    At the very least you should grind off the heads of the link to make it easier to push through or, just cut straight through the old chain with a 4" grinder if you're throwing it anyway...
     
  8. I have the one in the Bickers catalogue reference number 5914609, which I think is the Powerite one.

    Used it twice so far, seems to do a perfectly good job.............but as Duke Desmo says, grind the old link rivet heads down first to avoid unnecessary 'damage' to the tool.

    If the chain is DID, the attached image might be useful.....

    chain-inst_100-3.jpg
     
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