Ducati 999s service help.

A belt service wouldnt cost too much by itself. To do it yourself you need a cam locking tool (ebay).

For belts try nog.

 

Yes a cam locking tool will make it easy,or should I say easier.
Firstly remove belt covers which in itself is a pain in the arris, my advice here is to remove seat and tank as you dont want to scratch tank trying to get vertical cover up past tank (its a tight squeeze) , anyway you need tank off to remove vert cyl spark plug. also remove front cyl spark plug.
Once covers are off find TDC on vert cyl, I use something long and thin like a screwdriver.
To find this turn rear wheel by hand,hence removing spark plugs, (high compression) , when screwdriver is at it's highest point thats TDC.
Place cam locking tool in between Cam gear rollers, the tool wont fit unless both rollers are correctly lined up.

The front cyl cams arn't under tension so the rollers wont spring around but take note of where the dots on each roller line up on the casings as they need to be in the same place when the belts go back on (mine are done in a green paint but yours may differ.)
All in all I'd recommend taking note of these markings before removal of belts.

Loosen tensioned rollers then remove belts.
Now, another point to watch with the cam tool is that it locks the left side tightly but if its the same as mine it only has a curve on it to fit against the right side roller. This roller may move ever so slightly when the belt is removed and the final tension is off it because of said belt removal. Thats why you should take careful note of the little dots marked on the rollers and where they line up on the casings (which is easy because there are some nice reference points like raised lines on the casings).
Its easy to let this tiny slip of tension turn the right roller and you end up with it out of line by one tooth on the belt.
if you've any doubts regarding these marks take a picture on your mobile once at TDC for future reference.

When belts are on I tension with my laptop using Visual analyser 2011, (free to download ) and a small microphone.
Just ping the belt on the longest length with your finger and tension till you get a reading of approx 110 hz.
I then tension front to approx 100hz, because it's not under tension from cams , that equates to 110 when front cyl is TDC.

Obviously check belts are correct for you bike and I dont think Iv'e missed anything out so best of luck.
Pete.
Sorry forgot to say dont forget to remove cam belt tool before you do final tension

 

Search on YouTube for '999 belt change' and watch the three part video by California Cycleworks, it's pretty simple to understand.

 

You'll be looking for a Hz reading, not dB.

 

Yeah F.E. is right ,sorry brain slip there .

 

IMHO if you have the cam locking tool it is far simpler than that bloke sticking marks everywhere, even though he is correct, counting teeth is still prone to error .
Finding TDC on the vert cyl then inserting the tool means everything is locked in place,you can then remove both belts and replace. Simples.

 

Corse there is Jack u can change oil and filter, lube chain, check tension . Change clutch and brake fluids , check wear on plates , tyre condition and pressure,spark plugs (by removing seat and tank) front one can be got at behind front wheel with a bit of finesse, Spray any electrical connections with WD or some such and nip around the bike with an allen key and socket set checking bolts and fasteners are tight as these can become loose due to vibey nature of twins.

 

not sure if that's a typo Peter, but the motor should be timed up with the horizontal cylinder at TDC for a belt change. That will leave the rear inlet cam on the "rock" and is where the cam locking tool comes in handy when the belts are removed. The timing mark on the drive pulleys will align with the mark on the clutch casing as will the mark thru the alternator window with is respective pointer.
Also tension is 110Hz on both belts. Both cylinders should be done on the respective TDC. Horizontal is timed up for belt change already. Once done, turn crank 3/4 turn anticlockwise (looking from alternator) side then set rear tension. The tension on the closing springs can put 30Hz into the tension quite easily so tension only at TDC for the respective cylinder.

 

dito but forget the marking the belts as it is a total waste of time as the pain comes off when you try and get the betls on , also i did mine with a cam lock tool and it made it harder so in the bin it went ,in the end did it without and it was a easy job you only have one cam on tention top left i think so its not hard as long as you have marked everything and take your time .

 

also the best way is to remove the plugs put the bike in to gear and turn it over with the back wheel , i do have a tool for turning the crank but to be honist its harder as you will be on the wrong side of the bike so a second pair of eyes would be needed. and just remember once the crank is in the right position just mark the cams with a dot of paint on each side for future referance , its not rocket science but a lot of ducati dealers would like you to think it so and the best bit it will save you lots of dosh , just take your time and if you like take i photo before you start just to confirn you got it right

 

This may be a silly question but is there anything else to change when doing a belt service? Belt related I mean?

Thanks.

 

yes the lock nuts on the cam belt ajusters best to get them from ducati they are not cheap around £5 each but you have to get the right ones as they can only be used twice

 

You can use ordinary nyloc ones with a spacer behind ,but I just thread lock my o.e ones and have had no probs the last three times I've done em.