Hi all. I've had some odd issues on my 2005 999 where while riding the battery voltage would go up to 15 to 15.5 to 'hi' and make the speedo backlight flicker. I've decided this is most likely a fault with regulator and rectifier. I found that the connection between the r/r and alternator was wet on the inside. I don't see anything leaking but could have been from rain or something. I've dried it completely out and bought a new r/r and replaced (though the new r/r seems has a smaller heat sink... Had to play a bit to mount it properly). I checked and found that there is no shortages from alternator to ground. Now when I run the bike, at off voltage shows 11.9 or 11.8, normal. At started and idle it shows about 13.8 or 13.7, which I think is ok, I've seen it normally up to 14, but I think 13.8 is ok. But when I rev in neutral the voltage goes down to 13.5, 13.4, 13.2. Is that normal? (does not go lower than 13.2v) Seems I've fixed the overcharging issue but potentially something else might still be wrong? I'll go for a ride this evening and see what it does while riding, but any suggestions are appreciated, or comforting words that this is ok. I did read online that the alternator or r/r,might drop volts on purpose if battery does not need it... Any thoughts?
Did you measure the voltage on the battery or just look at the instument display voltage? I had a similar occurance on my 999, the display said Hi volts but it was actually 14.4V. I installed a second neg from the battery, cleaned the ECu earth & it solved the problem.
Just read it on the dash as the hight v only occurred when riding. When I stopped the volts would go down to 13.8 or 14. I'll post again this eveningafter a little ride BTW already cleaned the earth and installed a 2nd earth. That didnt resolve thus replacing the r/r
alright, so went for a ride. when sitting idling noticed that it was at 13.8v. when adding revs goes down to about 13.0v. started riding, interesting when rode it did not go down when revving more, it just sort of went down and up every few seconds between 13.0 and 13.8v almost like a see-saw effect, down / up, down/ up. However, after about 5-8 miles, it went down to 13.0v and kept going down till it hit 11.8v and blinked (looks as if the bike was turned off). it then just stayed around there. I kept going for another 10-15 miles till got home. The voltage just stayed as if the bike was off at 11.8 and dipped very slowly .1 at a time, to about 11.5 when i got home. when turned off the bike went up to 11.8 (0.3v higher). it looks to me at this point like the rectifier / regulator is not working at all after this short ride. makes me think that the fluctuations from the start could have been due to a faulty regulator? (even though just got it new....) is there a chance something else fried it that quick? only thing i can think of would be the generator itself that generates the electricity and passes it to the rectifier is messed up, frying the rectifiers? any thoughts?
These are (I believe highly recommended) Check the model I'm not sure if that one is suitable for a 999 SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER KIT REPLACES FH012AA | eBay John
Thanks John, I've found one specifically for my bike and returned the faulty one, in the mids of this I've also cleaned out all connectors. Supposed to have a new one at home when I get off work today. Will fit and pray for the best.
I've fitted the newly arrived r/r onto the bike, no more electrical issues, bike while running shows a steady 13.8-13.9 V all the time regardless of revs. It was the r/r after all. Interestingly when testing the old R/R with a voltage tester as per various threads youtube videos, it seems there was nothing wrong with it. with the old one the bike would show 13.8-13.9V for first 10-15 mins of riding and then start going to 15 and higher... so conclusion you cannot always test the r/r unit as faulty... anyways, another interesting point, the new r/r reduced slightly my slow idle / stalling on idle issue... not sure what idle has to do with r/r but apparently it does happy days.
Glad its sorted. I wouldn't have thought the R/R would have had any effect as I believe these bikes are permanent magnet type alternators which means the output for any given revs is the same no matter what else is happening. That means the load on the engine from the alternator should be the same. On older Guzzis for example a electro magnet controlled the field and therefor the alternator output. When you switched on the lights you could here the drop in revs as more current was fed to the field and the alternator loaded the engine more. But maybe I'm missing something John
The R/R converts AC voltage to DC voltage and regulates it to the correct level for use by the m/cycle, this includes the ECU, so if the voltage supplied is insufficient, or excessive and/or unstable the ECU has a hard time copping.