Hi can someone advise, the r&g looks like you dont need to remove any fairing parts, is the evotech the same, i think i prefer the look of it. Looking for the least hassle i can get away with!
The EP version is the better looking model tbh. You remove the frontal air ducks and the 2 fairing vanes. This is where the big bolts fit for the Rad Guard. Underneath the air ducks is a plastic piece that drops down once you've removed the 2 inner bolts. A little awkward, but could be worse tbh. You get fitting instructions with the EP 1 so gives you an idea what to remove etc. I've done both the Rad & Air Cooler, took about 90 mins or so to do both.
I have just fitted the Evotech radiator and oil cooler guards, to fit the rad guard you do need to remove the front lower fairings as the guard utilises the mounting holes on the lower wind flap fairing and make sure the guard is mounted on the outside of the fairing bracket whilst at this stage you might as well fit the oil cooler guard due to having the required access.
Here is a "how to" with pics [TABLE="class: page, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD][TABLE="class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD="class: alt1, bgcolor: #EFEFEF"]I ordered a set of UK made Evotech guards. Ducati Multistrada 1200 Radiator/Oil Cooler Guard Set | EvoTech [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] For the following reasons: - well priced - Radiator guard bolted on rather than glued or ziptied - looks very protective - light weight - looks good - looks unlikely to block air flow Oil radiator guard with foam strip: [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Radiator guard with foam strip and stick on foam dots: [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] These items came with instructions but they were minimal at best so I thought to put this method up as a “how to”. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Step 1. Prepare the Evotech guards Easy. They come with foam strips to protect from rubbing on the radiators. You need to cut the strips in half, clean the area with ethanol. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Apply foam strips to oil and radiator guards and trim [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
[TABLE="class: page, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD][TABLE="class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD="class: alt1, bgcolor: #EFEFEF"]Sorry my bike is so dirty! Step 2. Remove the bike nosecone Remove the 10 small black screws holding on the nosecone. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] There are 4 each side for the front part. 1 of these also screws through the small rear panel on each side and then the rear one. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] The order of removal does not matter. Remove the larger bottom screw that goes through a bracket and rubber grommet. You will have to use a hex spanner and something to grab the hex not at the back. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Take off the air temp sensor. This just pulls off. Also slide off the flexible tube that joins the airbox to the nosecone. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Slide the entire unit down at the front as there is a plastic post under the middle of the front piece that goes into a metal loop bracket on the rear of the oil radiator. You may have to gently bend out the fairing panels at the rear to remove the entire unit. Move the whole unit forward and off. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Step 3. Clean the radiators I had many bugs and bug guts so I used a soft brush to clean them. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] If you think you don’t need an oil cooler guard, look at this. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] My bike has about 9,000km on it and I was surprised to see a hit to the oil radiator core. Looks like a stone has put a small dent and taken a bit of paint off. While there is no real damage or leak it would seem that a larger or faster projectile could damage the radiator and oil leaking above the front tyre seems a bad idea for so many reasons. [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
[TABLE="class: page, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD][TABLE="class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD="class: alt1, bgcolor: #EFEFEF"]Step 4. Fit the oil cooler guard The oil guard has a lip on the top that fits into the top of the radiator. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] The bottom of the guard has 2 tabs with holes to loop a ziptie through. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] The ziptie goes around the bracket on the bottom of the oil cooler. Zip it up and trim. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Job done. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Step 5. Fit the radiator guard I have SW-Motech brackets fitted for LED driving lights and these bolt up to the side of the radiator that bolts on the bracket for the side fairing and now the radiator guard. Remove the 2 bolts either side. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Fit up the guard, bracket (and in my case, the spotlight mount) and bolt it on using locktite. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] I have the fairing bracket, light mount and radiator guard bolted on and there are no issues fitting all of this in terms of bolt length or clearance. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] The Evotech radiator guard has stick on rubber buffers to stop the side fairing rubbing on the guard. In this case they are not needed due to the rubber bumpers already on the light mounts. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
[TABLE="class: page, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD][TABLE="class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD="class: alt1, bgcolor: #EFEFEF"]As an aside, I have been experimenting with the light mounts. The SW-Motech mount is a little short for the type of LED lights I am using and the lights just hit the fairing and it limited their adjustment range. I fitted 2 stainless chainplates (from a boating chandler) to move the lights about 10mm further forward. This works well and the lights are in the clear, adjustable and well away from the fork legs. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Step 6. Refit nosecone Follow the reverse procedure. Slide the nosecone back onto the bike making sure that as it reaches the correct position, slide the air intake connector on the airbox back on the right side onto the intake part of the nosecone. Replug in the air temp sensor, also on the right hand side. It is best to pop in a few of the black screws to hold it together. Leave them very loose until you have all the screws in. As another aside, I found these Valtermoto black anodised M4 x 15mm screws to replace the crappy standard ones that look rusty very quickly. They come with washers and I think it is important to uses these washers on all parts. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] See here: :| V A L T E R M O T O |: http://www.vcomponents.com/download/...EM-VET-VEV.pdf Now you have fitted the 10 small screws. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Fit the 2 larger screws that go through the bracket at the bottom of the fairing. This system is a little dodgy. The rubber grommet should be carefully pushed back through the hole in the bracket with a flat-bladed screwdriver before fitting the special hex bolt. Once everything is in place, make sure you tighten all 12 screws. Job done - you almost don't know it is there. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
[TABLE="class: page, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD][TABLE="class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center"] [TR] [TD="class: alt1, bgcolor: #EFEFEF"]Here are pics of the radiator screens and amended spotlight setup. [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE="class: ncode_imageresizer_warning2, width: 640"] [TR] [TD="class: td2, width: 100%, align: right"][/TD] [TD="class: td1, bgcolor: #000000"]Report this image[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] All in all this would have been about a 35 minute job (without beer) or a 1 hour (with beer). I took a little longer as I was messing around with the light mounts but I have this done and dusted in under 1.5 hours. [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
Hi TimOz I see from hour pics that you've got light brackets fitted to Mutley lower rad fixings used for the side fairing brackets. I used these for the Motech Hawk lights brackets and in a trip to Corsica (about 3K miles) they caused the rad to crack! My conclusion is that these fixings have such fine tolerances to only allow for the weight/vibration of the fairing panel and not a lot else!
Tripletrouble, Claire from Motohaus who import the Hawk lights told me they'd contacted the 12 people who they had records of (Mutley owners) to immediately remove them due to the bracket cracking issues with the rad. My rad cracked. Now have SW Motech bars fitted and the Hawks fitted to them. Looks more and more like a GS 1200 Kettle every day!
hottubbiker, I have had the original SW Motech brackets for 2 years with no problems at all. My theory is that the mounting bolts supplied were too long and bottomed out on the rad mounting holes and fractured the radiator. I used my own, shorter bolts. The Radiator brackets are a much better bracket IMHO. I received the free replacement brackets and they were up on the tank, in the way and ugly. I sent them to a dude in Sweden so they were not wasted.
