1200 DVT Exhaust For 2014 1200 Multistrada

The twin spark came out in 2013 so it should be, DVT 2015.
Are you thinking just end can or whole system? Heard of a few fitting 2014 Termi cans to 2015 models, just a tweak of the heat shield I think, not sure if anyones tried 2015 can in earlier models but if it’s possible someone on here has probably tried it?

 

Certain Termi end cans from 2010 model up to last 1260 will fit. You can modify the side plate to fit the same year range.
I’ve done this on my 2011 single spark and 2017 DVT and to my mates 1260.
There are pics on the forum.

 

I have a 2013 (same as 2014) and used the tuneboy system. Does it also have the tuneboy quickshifter and 3 cruise buttons on the handle bars?

If you don't have the quickshifter then you can mostly tune to make the bike smoother, debateable how much that helps a twin spark. If you have the quickshifter them you can tweak the timing of the blips and cuts.

While I guess changing just the can it possible across years, I think to remove the cat you want to find a system to fit the 2011-2014 models.

 

Well if you haven't used it, then I probably wouldn't bother, if you keep the cat box and just fit slip ons then tuning isn't needed.

If you decided to decat then it would be more useful, but there aren't many tuners in the UK that like using it so you kinda have to do it yourself.

The main use on stock and decatted bikes was to smooth the fueling out in a few places and this really depended on the riders perception of the problem. I've always found my 2013 to be very smooth, but I also find my 1198 to be smooth and easy to ride at low revs, so either I have amazingly smooth bikes or I just don't perceive a problem where others might. Anyhow if you feel you have a problem with the fueling or need to turn of service warnings etc then this is where it will help.

In my opinion without the quickshifter and cruise additions then unless you want to learn how to tune and have a friendly dyno, you'd get a better job by taking it to CJS etc and let them make the map with their software.

 

Ah, Tuneboy.

Tuneboy comes with a .DAT file and then a selection of Trim files. As I recall you load the .dat file to the bike so that it can work the rest of the tuneboy software. The part relevant to tuning is are the trm files, there should be some default ones you can try.


I would say try the closest trim to what you have fitted to the bike right now. There should also come a Zero Trim file and this basically has 0 values in as such it makes no different to the stock fueling. The idea being you adjust the values in the map to increase or decrease from the stock values in that area.

You can load into the 3 slots 3 different trim files to try, so I'd load Zero, plus to others to try.

You can either try and do this by feel or find a tuner willing to run it on the dyno and recommend mapping changes. Which is what I did a long time ago when I ran a SC project decat.

If you have the dual spark non-DVT then you are welcome to try the final maps I was using and myself and another rider in Ireland spent some time refining. I found the bike pleasant to ride and town work was easy. The top file below was the final trim I used on the Tuneboy v6.6e software, it includes Quickshift values. The second file is the basic trim with no QS tuning that came out of a dyno session with the SC project decat.

6.6e_SC_Base_TB_QS_v13.TRM
SC_Dyno_v1.TRM

 

So what I linked are Trims, once you've done the initial tuneboy install using the .dat, you load trims to change the fueling. You can load 3 different trims onto the bike and switch between them with a few button presses (see the Tuneboy manual).

So I would advise loading, the Zero Trim (which will make no changes to your fueling and should behave fine), then two other trim files you want to try which will change the fueling. You can then start out riding with no changes and then try the maps which do make changes.

The tuneboy trim files if you load them in the software will contain positive or negative numbers, this is an increase or decrease of fuel from the bikes normal fueling. Take the below up the side is throttle opening and left to right is RPM.

In that map it adds no fuel a 0 throttle when at 1250 RPM, but when you are at 9.9% open throttle at 2400 RPM it's giving the bike 8.1% of extra fuel. (don't ask me what those numbers actually represent)

For it feeling groggy,make sure you are in 150 low to do this tuning as that has the linear throttle opening. Then maybe with the bike hooked up to the tuneboy take note of the throttle positions and RPM's you are hitting when you repeat the behaviour. Then adjust up or down the values in the squares in that area. Do it consistently then go for a ride and see if it's better. Make little changes a few at a time so you don't flood or lean the bike out.

And read the manual, the Tuneboy is not a quick tuning fix a good result requires knowledge of bike tuning and ideally a way to get the AFR values. This is why going to a tuner like CJS would have got you a better riding bike for less effort.

 

Did you do all these changes at the same time, you may just be noticing the difference between cat and decat. The tuneboy really shouldn't make any changes to fueling until you put trims in.

 

So, can it fit or not? I saw only minor differences in clamp and older MTS got small pin at pipe, but no one care muffler easy fitted could be. But decat system from newer to old, interesting, really. Such kind of project without dyno stand or Donyjet autotuner module, seems like a nutshell