Howdo! Anyone used this before? Facom Universal Timing Cambelt belt Tensioner Kit DM.16 (DM16) If so can it be used for all Ducatis? ST3 in particular. Or if anyone has a easy step by step guide in doing ST3 belts? I've read so many threads n posts and I've tried using a guitar tuner and the results have not left me with that warm cosy feeling. Also should the engine be warm or cold? Any advice welcome. Cheers Pablo
Always cold imo, I have a friend that uses a Facom tool and it does the job. Having done a fair few cambelts in my time (cars and bikes), the 45 degree, 5mm test works for me.
Seen loads of threads, posts, You tube etc. Just to clarify that I'm doing it right. 1. 45 Degree test: Where along the belt are you twisting? 2. 5mm allen key: Where are you running/placing the 5mm key? I've just reset my old belts at 92hz using a little mic and CBM software, but I do like a mechanical method. Thanks again for any input. Cheers Pablo
Belt twist on the longest run, 5mm in between the cam pulleys. I think I must be old school, not sure if I would use any other method. With most cars now, you get automatic tensioners and ones with tension guides, it would be easier if Ducati had done something like this for the old Desmoquattros, save alot of faffing!
Is this on a 2valve or do you use this method for all belts? When doing the allen key is that between the fixed roller or the adjustable tensioner? Or both? And finally do you have to rotate the allen key? I've checked with freq (92Hz), I can get a 5mm allen key through between the fixed roller but I have to rotate it through so it's not going through on a single flat edge (If that makes sense, its to tight just for me to guide through on one edge). Also seen on the 2 valve they do 5mm for the front and 6mm for the rear as the rear gets hotter? Sorry for all the questions.
I've got a Facom gauge, works fine on the 916 not used it on the 2v yet but I see no reason why not, as long as there's room to fit it on a belt run? I get a consistant tension reading on the 4v belts with it and it corresponds with other tension checking methods. FWIW I think the hype over tension is exactly that; hype, and it is not as critical as many make out, any of the twist, deflection or gap methods seem fine to me. Better on the slack side than too tight though IMO.
5mm/6mm allen key on a cold engine between the fixed idler pulley & the belt... :wink: No need for any tecmikal hocus-focus jiggery-pokery! Desist! :tongue: Your belts will only eat themselves if they are chronically over-tensioned & overheat or are too slack by far, causing teeth-jumping and the resultant mechanical carnage. The rear belt will get hotter as it will fill up chimney-style with all the radiant hotness off BOTH the pots? The new Multistrada & I think the Monsters have a vented cambelt cover system to combat this? A vent in the horiz.pot with what appears to be a wedge of MX filter foam in it allowing air in and vents on the vert pot allowing air out? Will have to agree with SRAD34 in that it would have been much easier if Ducati had developed some sort of car-type automatic tensioner?
Amen to that. Done a few myself and all this talk of tuning with a guitar tuner of other audio device and also spring tension meter is, in my opinion, utter tosh. The 5mm (Allen key is what I use) method has always worked for me. Isn't there a saying based on K.I.S.S.!!! Pete
I was told that but you can not get a allen key between the belt and the pully due to it having a lip on the side any tips
That would do it! Just had a look in the Haynes, the 916 & four-valvers have an edge on the pulley so no 5mm/6mm Voodoo for these... Does mention a 45deg twist-test halfway down the belt though or some test-meter settings...
Keep It Simple, Stupid! (Nothing personal :tongue Just noticed you've changed them, what method did you use when you fitted your belts?
found one methord on line you pull the belts tight and scrib a line on the head along the belt between the cams , then press a 5mm allen key down between the cams untill you get the 5mm between the belt and the and the scribe mark and that is the tention , i hope
Howdo!! Thanks for the replies. Now I have done 900ss 2valve belts and been happy, it's when you doubt what your doing when you read other posts. The main differences I have seen from ST3 v 900 is that the fwd belt tensioner is at a different position and there has been a lot of hype with Hz (Which no one can clarify if its 110 - 140hz) measurements. Along with spending a small fortune on the Engine. Cheers Pablo
