Faulty electronic fuel cap

Go back to key one or take a chance and get new electronic.

My electronic has a mind of its own and bloody embarrassing at the services. Seriously thinking of going back to key one.

 

A few people have had theirs changed. Mine was changed end of last year. In practice I think it is just a poor connection (white two pin connector, should be somewhere near headstock on right hand side).
I found that if I unplugged and plugged it back in it would work. Just annoying as it meant a bit of faffing about.
I have made sure my connector is easily accessible rather than tucked under the tank just in case I need to get to it...

 

Never had a problem with mine.. Famous last words now!!!

I do know they recalled the very 1st ones available for a revised version, maybe i got the revised version..?

But please dont ask me how to identify the difference?

Like John W states, its probbably more to do with the connection, i fitted mine myself, and made sure i got a good tight connection, well away from any water ingress etc..

 

Take a look here: Motorcycle Info Pages - MTS1200 Electrical Stuff > Keyless Fuel Cap

It isn't necessary to strip the bike quite as much as is shown here to fit it. You do need to get the central tank panel off though to get to the vent pipes.
My connector was nearer to the right hand side, unlike is shown in the pictures above. Consequently I ensured it was accessible when fitting mine, and it is now attached near the solid brake pipes so I can get at it if needs be.
It is a sealed style connector, so moisture shouldn't be a problem. Like I say though, unplugging / replugging seemed to make it work again for a while.

 

While they were dismantled, I took a look at the electronic and manual fuel caps side by side, to see if it was possible to mix parts and create a hybrid cap which would open electronically but could still be opened manually with key in emergencies.

The answer is no, not easily. The caps could have been designed so as to be compatible, but actually were perversely designed so they are not.

If a cap failed on the road, it would be easy to undo the six screws and lift the cap far enough to get fuel in. You would then have to leave the breather pipes unattached, which would be OK in a get-you-home emergency and a lot better than being stranded. After getting home you would have to sort out the pipes etc properly, of course.

 

My electronic fuel cap works reliably with bare hands but is a bit iffy with gloves on

 

I always carry the correct Allen key to get it off in an emergency, as mine went through a stage of not opening until I re-powered and shut down the ignition. Seems to have fixed itself though? I was told that the red kill switch must be "UP" for it to work, but I haven't got any recollection of where it was on the times it didn't open, so not sure on that one?

 

It makes no difference where the red switch is, it should work wherever you leave it (mine does anyway).
The only important thing is the filler solenoid is powered for ~20 to 30 seconds after switching the ignition off.

 

This is the problem I occasionally have. Could there be a time delay sometimes and switching it on and off confuses the situation more ?? When this happens I stop faffing, take my gloves off and it works.

 

Manual says 60 seconds, but is there an initial variable delay after switching the engine off ?? This is what I suspect but getting 100% repeatability is difficult. At one point I was convinced the problem was when I left my satnav powered up that it refused to open, this isn't the case however.

 

ok, 60 seconds it is then, I didn't check before posting. Clearly my memory is going

No, there shouldn't be a variable delay.
If you have your helmet off and ear plugs out you should be able to hear the solenoid actuate.

I wondered whether pulling the tab when closing the flap had any impact. Whether it locked in the wrong place or something.
Given that it worked fine most of the time without thinking about how i was using it, I concluded that maybe it was simply faulty.

 

+1 for the dodgy keyless cap.

Mine stranded me at services on the M40, refusing to open. I took it off with an Allen key, raising it enough to get fuel in. When I got home I cut the whole thing out and refitted the normal, key-operated one. I dumped the whole thing on the dealer when it went in for the latest recall (coolant this time, I think). They fitted another keyless one. Now I'm wondering whether I did the right thing with a three-week trip to Spain coming up.

Maybe I should have stuck with the key-operated one...

 

I really fancied the idea of a keyless cap but strangely enough it's the reliability thing that's putting me off. Who'd have thought...

 

+1

The idea sounds great but its embarrassing enough when the bike wont "find" the key when you are trying to restart your bike at the garage never mind not being able to open the actual fuel cap.

As a sidenote I had to change the key battery yesterday. 2 and half years. Not bad.

 

Mines been faultless, shut down ignition and opens every time

But I'm now getting worried with all these posts...?

So now put Allen key in tool kit, just incase!!

 

Never even looked at this when I placed my order for the basic 2013. Is this (keyless) an optional extra or standard fit on some models?

 

Optional extra at £220, you need to have the key on you anyway so for me it just seems to expensive for what it provides.

 

I think it should be standard fit personally. You need to carry the key somewhere and then have to fish around and find it to open the flap.

A standard key in the ignition (near the flap) would be my preferred option - a poorly thought out idea, the keyless ignition on a motorbike imvho.