Does anybody know of a correct alternative component to the standard item? Mine is in the way out I think (only works sporadically, which makes it interesting for the bike following!), but the cost of the Ducati part is ridiculous. There are plenty of micro switches on the Bay, but I haven't yet found anything with the right dimensions.
I had success with my 2002 ST4S with "SPDT Button Microswitch, 1 A@ 250 V acStock no.: 823-5291" 01048.2151-00 | SPDT Button Microswitch, 1 A@ 250 V ac | Marquardt I left the third wire un-connected which I think is normally open
It's a '96 Superlight. I'm not sure if the m/cylinder is the same as yours, but looking at the RS switch info, the relevant dimensions look the same.
Hejira, I've got some info on the switch, they are "cherry" brand and I got mine also from RS. They did not come with the little black cap but have see these on ebay recently. Will look it up when I get home. There was a number of terminal options and a pre wired version I think. I have been meaning to post this info for a while. Cheers Gaz
Mine came from RS-Online, item no 848-6354, its a Cherry P/N DC1C-C4AA which is identical to the one that was on the bike. £4.70 delivered. Mr Bimble.
All, Just fished mine out again. Basically they all seem to be pretty much the same - difference being terminal type & contact configuration. (I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN). See data sheet on rs web site. DC1C-L1AA | SPDT-NO/NC Button Microswitch, 6 A@ 250 V ac | Cherry So "DC1" 6A 250vac My switch only had 2 terminals a C (common) & NC (normally closed) - this would give "DC1B" as its SPST (single pole single throw) From data sheet it has the longer terminals "QC" with 30 deg twist - this would give "DC1B-L1" It is button only so "AA" So I think full part number is "DC1B-L1AA" There only seems to be on RS web site either: "DC1B-A1AA" short terminals (C & NC) "DC1C-L1AA" long terminals (3 terminals as its SPDT - single pole double through) "DC1C-C4AA" with leads C NO NC (as mention in previous post - leads on opposite to actuator) I presume if you get a switch with 3 terminals or leads then you don't use the NO normally open one. I think cheapest one (89p) is "DC1C-L1SC" (517-690) and take the lever off. Others are a quid or so extra. Here is a link for the rubber boot: Ducati Bremslichtschalter vorn Druckstück 888, Monster, 900SS 748 916 ST2 ST4 | eBay I hope you did not loose you screws Cheers Gaz
Thanks all for your help - much appreciated. Ordering from RS is my first job tomorrow. Gaz - the reference to 'rubber boot' is interesting. I guess it goes over the plunger on the switch? I'm asking cos I've never seen it before - certainly there has never been one fitted on my bike, unless the PO removed/lost it.
Hejira858, I can't remember seeing one on mine, but saw it in all the ones for sale on ebay. Then I came across it for sale separate so thought I would get one. Yes I too presume it goes over the plunger. Which one are you going for. Check your messages Cheers Gaz
Thanks Gaz - appreciate your trouble. Not looking at the RS stuff tonight - too much interference - I'll look in the morning when I've got some peace and quiet. However, would be happy to take a spare switch off you, if you can locate it - for proper exchange of beer tokens of course. Regards, Jeff
I think the microswitch actuating plunger is already sealed from production and the rubber boot just sits in a bore through the master cylinder housing and transmits the movement of the brake lever to the switch, so be careful when you remove the switch so this doesn't get lost. I checked that the rubber boot was free to move in the bore and then reused it. The OEM price for the switch was around 30 Euro's (Stein Dinse), so finding the same thing for a fiver was already a result so stopped looking further - so 89p is a steal! The switch I got had an extra lead that would not be required, and would also need terminals and the harness sleeving transferring. Worth making sure that the leads exit from the correct end of the switch so that the cable runs neatly around the master cylinder. Mr Bimble.
All, From others I am getting the impression that some have spade connectors and some are pre-wired, so it's worth checking what would suit your own wiring and order accordingly. As Mr Bimble points out be careful if pre-wired you get the wire coming out of the correct ends - DC1C-C4AA option - opposite to actuator (I will double check this) I did order this wrong. I can't exactly remember how the boots fits either over the switch (which is sealed as Mr Bimble says) or in a housing. Will investigate further, may be some pics if your lucky. But as said "RS" is the place to go. You will be up for a bit of postage but still well worth it. Cheers Gaz
It's not consistent, my 750 had spades and my 400 had wired switch. Have converted the 400 to spades as the connecting wires are long enough, so shouldn't be a problem.
This set me thinking - maybe the actual switch is ok, and its the boot that's sticking a bit, and stopping the switch plunger from extending sufficiently to make the circuit. Will have to investigate further.
All, Never assume. Well here I was ready for an early night when I just kept thinking I wonder what the story is with the black boot thing. Well its a solid plug not a boot cover, what do you mean "yeah I know". Credit to Mr Bimble. It's 5mm long x 5.25 dia. I did not measure the hole but it was a free fit in there probably 5.5mm from the pics. First it looks to me that you will have to bend the wires quite severely to get the switch in position if you go for a pre-wired one, I think I would avoid this if possible. You could have the wires coming out of the other side "C3" but that does not look good. The one in the pictures is a "C3" and have turned it around to show how much you need to bend the wires, and it's still not in position properly. The solid plug pushes the plunger in when brake is off, the switch is NC so this opens the circuit, when brake is pulled on it put the switch to the normally closed completing the circuit. So my plug must have fallen out when I took thing apart and did not see it. I would think you could make your own given the dimensions, just make sure its a free fit in the housing so the plunger action can push it back and open the contact when brake is pulled, and don't make it too long as to damage the switch when brake is off. Just took the lever off one of the micro switch from RS to give me just the switch. It was a bit fiddly. The lever pivots on a plastic boss each side which has had it's end melted over to retain it. I managed it with a very pointed craft knife and cut the melted end off. You can see this in the last pic. Cheers Gaz
All, Never assume. Well here I was ready for an early night when I just kept thinking I wonder what the story is with the black boot thing. Well its a solid plug not a boot cover, what do you mean "yeah I know" It's 5mm long x 5.25 dia. I did not measure the hole but it was a free fit in there probably 5.5mm. First it looks to me that you will have to bend the wires quite severely to get the switch in position, I think I would avoid this if possible. You could have the wires coming out of the other side "C3" but that does not look good. The one in the pictures is a "C3" and have turned it around to show how much you need to bend the wires, and it's still not in position properly. View attachment 55816 View attachment 55817 View attachment 55819 View attachment 55820 View attachment 55821
