I've set the front to 5 turns on from full counter clockwise for me which is working great thus far. But the wife and I have a big trip coming up and I've never adjusted it when she jumps on the back. But we're gonna be hitting up the Black forest in Germany and I'm wondering if its worth adding more preload on the front or nah? Withnthe both of us and luggage, it will be full preload at (I think) 10 turns from counter clock wise, which I forget if that's open or close. Also, anyone got the tyre pressures for pillion and panniers for the pilot Road 5's?
Counter clockwise winds it out. You then adjust it by winding in clockwise. As Bradders says, might be a good idea to either take the spanner/socket with you or do some 2up test rides before you go.
Thanks lads. And yea, that's the way, counter clockwise all the way in and clockwise out to set. We'll see how we go.
Think you have that the wrong way round! Rather than guessing, why not take it to a suspension specialist and get it set up exactly for you? Cost is well worth it.
Clockwise is all the way in full hard... Then you count the clicks out as per manual... What model do you have ???
Far from an expert but I would not put much more front pre load on. Try to cut down fort dive for a passenger is the goal
Was under the impression, for the Mutley at least, it was all the way out (counter clock-wise) to softest. Then wind in clock-wise, adding pre-load, the required number of turns.
As last time, I'll reference the manual for which way is which, this was more a question on if it's even worth adding more for pillion and panniers as a curiosity. This, a lot of places near me don't really want to mess with the Skyhook suspension and until I get a couple of track days in, I'm super happy with what I've set so far. Additionally, far from guessing, I just couldn't remember which way is what at the early hours of this morning and first thing when I woke up. If anyone is curious, this is how the rest of my suspension is setup (1260 S GT). Since setting up the front pre load to my weight I've not touched it. I'm 6'2", fairly aggressive rider but I can only be so sporty living in the flattest lands in Europe (god I miss some decent twisties) and weigh 14.5 stone (92kg)... Getting chonky in these covid times!
as most of the extra weight is over the rear of the bike I've never changed the front from where I set it for me, even two up, full panniers and camping gear, not had an issue, I'd certainly not use the same formula ie 10 full turns, it'll be like steel girders for forks !!
Yea, I've never had a partner on the back of my bikes enough to care to even change tyre pressure. But my wife absolutely loves being on the Multi and we're going to be doing a tonne of long trips so I want to make it as best for her as possible. I'll leave the front and see how it is throughout the weekend. But yea, I imagine I don't need to do anything. I just can't wait to show her some decent roads and twisties unlike these straight and flat boring roads in the Netherlands...
Just out of curiosity what are your rebound settings? Are they still on factory medium for sport and touring? Thanks
I think you're getting mixed up with settings. You can set the softest - Hardest which controls both the compression and rebound (someone please correct me as it's not overly clear in the manual). I've left everything to medium, and simply gone in and adjusted rebound. I'm assuming if I adjust the 'softness' to say, hard, for example, then I'll need to reduce the rear rebound. But right now, that's a total guess to me hence I've left it on medium and assumed compression is set to the middle of what ever setting the software desires and I've only set the rebound. Again, I really need a track day to spend an entire day sitting around and trying out settings as no suspension guys near me know what to make of the system. I've read where people have set it to 'hardest' and maxed out preload for the rear and set to sport and claimed it was 'perfect'. But honestly, if I wanted to ride a stiff dick I'd call John Elton or ride a super bike. The thing to remember is this is a touring bike, it's meant to soak up bumps and cruise. Lastly, I'm not even an rookie in suspension, I'm an amateur. Please don't take my advice, I'm still toying with it and until I find someone who knows what they are doing, any numbers/suggestions I submit is a fart in the wind. Just what I find good for me right now.
It’s what the modes are made for. If it gets a bit twisty with camber meaning grounding out, put in higher setting for preload and/or up the hardness setting. It sets both when you adjust it, comp/reb. It works at still keeping you in the right range, so actually softening with a passenger seems to make the rear choppy and harsher , from other mutual rider feedback. If sprouted, may be worth changing one of the modes to all the throttle etc settings you like normally but add a couple on the hard side of setting if pre-dvt or post dvt add one. (Iirc older bikes were 20 off settings, dvt on only 5??)
In answer to the original question, if you are increasing the preload in the back with the rider-luggage setting then you should also increase the front preload accordingly, probably to a lesser amount than the rear. That is of course if they were set perfectly for a single rider to begin with. Preload shouldn't be a mystery. You simply want to set it so when you sit on the bike it sags 1/3rd of the total suspension travel. And that when you drop your butt into the seat both front and rear compress equally. Adding passenger and luggage puts more weight in the back half of the bike but you still want the 1/3rd sag and even front to back. Once all loaded up you can play with the suspension hardness mode to your liking, or just leave it as it is. The suspension hardness mode adjusts front and back compression and rebound dampening together. Not much mystery here, just set it how you like. Now if you're setting compression and rebound dampening with two separate screws like on a PP with non electric ohlins then you need to start reading suspension books
After setting the forks pre-load on my 1200 S I started to play with the electronic suspension settings. The fantastic thing about this bike is it’s all done at the touch of a button. Therefore you can really feel the difference when out on a ride, simples. I change between sport and Touring mode on the fly. Obviously the other two modes can be used but aren’t generally relevant for any period when you’re out on a run. Having said that last weekend in Norfolk one road was so bad I hit enduro, which helped soak up the bumps. If I want to change between load settings I stop and do it stationary. I found now I’ve set the forks manually the bike goes round corners like it’s on rails if I set it to ‘two up no luggage’ even though I’m solo. With that set generally I find it best to be in touring mode as sport mode becomes a bit firm on British bumpy roads. On smooth Spanish roads sport mode may be fine. I’ll have to check as I think I’ve set some settings to ‘harder’ in the dash as opposed to the factory standard ’medium’ setting. I’m afraid I can’t help much for two up riding other than to say when we were on tour abroad my Mrs found it too harsh a ride when I set the suspension to ‘two up + luggage’ in sport mode. However she was happy with ‘two up + luggage’ in touring mode. I was impressed she could feel the difference but without knowing I’d changed suspension settings she asked why it was so bumpy all of a sudden, it made her ache all over. Personally I loved the setting but a happy pillion is a happy tour. I dropped it back to touring mode. Maybe that’s a starting point for you.
