Here’s a question that I hope another 1260 pp owner may help with. Ohlins front forks preload. Book states 1 turn = 1 mm. also states 10 mm = max so why is fully out 15 turns ? And at “sport” setting, which is 7 mm in from fully out, (that’s 8 turns left but there should only be 3) I’ve caught the center stand? Average weight (14stone) 1 up, is the book wrong? Im using the full 170mm fork length regularly How many turns has yours ? Anyone had it set professionally, if so what to? Just as a note, the book also states the adjuster as 14mm. Mine is 17mm (Both compression and rebound are set at 6)
Do a search, there are a few threads on this. On skyhook they like a half turn (May be 1/4 it’s been a while!) per 15kg. ime set to that then come back a half of a ‘turn’ suited me. no idea how different ohlins is but may be worth a go
Thanks for your input, Ive just come off a skyhook DVT to the new Pikes. Ohlins is totally different. But what strikes me as strange is the front bottoming out. Mainly under heavy breaking, only with preload set at full, ie 15 turns, when the book states 10 is max (?) and compression set to be at 3 will it stop. I’m just guessing, but are those Italian test riders 6 stone wet through?
I think you are answering your own questions. There is no stock answer. You have found a setting that works for you, jobs a good un. What more do you want?
The general idea is, when sitting on the bike with all your weight, the suspension should be compressed 1/3rd of it's total travel, or as close to that as you can get. Front and rear.
So as the manual specifically states front preload as 10 max, is there a danger of going over ? If so what?
So your Ohlins fork suspension travel is 170mm. 1/3rd of that is 56mm. You want the suspension to drop 56 mm when sitting on it, leaving 113 mm of tube showing. Wrap a twist tie or zip tie not too tight around the fork (shiny part) pushed up to the fork seal. Ignition on straddling the seat. Sit on the seat with all your weight once or twice. dismount and check the zip tie. It should be aprox 113 mm from the casting at the bottom of the fork. This puts you very close to where you want to be. If the fork is bottoming out with 1/3rd sag then spring would be the issue.
I’ve never been certain how this works with electronic suspension, given it compensates so much that a light or heavy spring can be disguised. Whereas traditional manual stuff it’s easy to measure and know if springs are too light/heavy. Don’t know if the new ohlins is like the 2010.
Now keep in mind that I’m around 14 stone and 5’11”, so I guess fairly average. So after lots of adjustment and measurements with my wife roped in to help, it looks like the only way of getting preload set correctly to give the correct sag measurement is to put both front and back on full. That’s 8mm on the back, and forget what the book says, it’s 15 turns from out on the front. Which means that with the standard suspension you can’t carry luggage or a passenger without changing springs? Surely that can’t be right on a £20k new bike... looks like it’s back to the dealer as a minimum.
My 1260PP also uses full fork travel, I put a zip tie on and its fully bottomed out, I have taken 2 full turns harder from standard. My rear suspension is on max preload and max compression. I am always two up, me being nearly 14stone and the wife 9 1/2 stone and although it concerns me the handing and suspension feels exceptionally good
Running with no fork travel left during normal riding is dangerous. In an emergency braking situation you could end up in serious trouble........ get it set up properly. £45 why wouldn’t you
Yes it is... Manual states otherwise, but unless you’re a single rider and quite light it needs to be full front and back, two up with or without luggage needs heavier springs. watch this it'll explain 2:20 is the key moment.
Haven’t checked the front preload on my 2019 PP as it was a demo bike with 500 miles on the clock and the dealer manager it was set up for was about the same weight as me and the dealer tweaked it for my weight difference. However I noticed they had the rear sag/preload set to zero. I gave it 4 turns for normal riding and eight for full luggage and went through all the other settings. It now rides fantastically with compression and rebound set near the settings recommended for 'Touring' front and back in the manual
Someone posted this a while back. I'm pretty sure it was for a 1260PP. I haven't tried it on mine, Reactive Suspension are only a couple of miles away from me and I've had great results from the basic ride in set up offer on previous bikes. Just need to get mine booked in!
Sorry mistyped - meant to say more by luck than judgement with other settings and that's why I went through it all as attached with my preferred settings in red
Steelboss - there's a gap in the thread from 'returning to dealer' to the mention of £45. You got it sorted then...?
The front looks about right (two clicks stiffer than the standard Touring setting) but the rear looks wrong with the Rebound more clicks out that the Compression. Compression is normally a couple of more clicks out than Rebound.
