has any one redone the grub screews on the fixing ring before, all the ones on the 400 are stuck in so I thought about re drilling and tapping them in. Also are the seal kits still available?? Thanks
Mine were stuck when I rebuilt my 750 last year. I kept applying wd40 to help loosen them up, then as they were mostly rounded out, i tapped in a slightly larger torx bit and wound them out. Bought a new set and seal from motorapido. I think the grubs screws were something like 80 pence each.
Lumbux....If I were you, I would keep trying to get them out without damaging the threads, even if you have to do what Amentia said and use a torx bit (which hopefully won't snap)..... ......there isn't a lot of room to use a tap and tap handle in the hole to get new threads. You could try using diesel and oil mixed 50/50 and just keep soaking them every day for a week....it might penetrate enough to crack the rust.
Thanks to both of you, I already used the torn bit trick and they have been well socked with all manner of liquids but there is a few I can't get out and there all on one side so can't use it at the min. I'll have a go at the drill and tap a new thread, nothing to lose. Thanks again, Al I will get over to yours soon, might get the 750 back on the road next month so may wait and pop over on the bike.
Thanks to both of you, I already used the torx bit trick and they have been well socked with all manner of liquids but there is a few I can't get out and there all on one side so can't use it at the min. I'll have a go at the drill and tap a new thread, nothing to lose. Thanks again, Al I will get over to yours soon, might get the 750 back on the road next month so may wait and pop over on the bike.
Bicycle pedal pins are the same size generally and are cheaper and much better material than the original grub screws
If you pop into here Suffolk Fasteners - Sockets and Bolts and much more you can generally get whatever you need in stainless.
Thanks all, there like 2 quid on the bay for 10 of them, any idea of the size so I can get the right ones.
Thread resurrection time! Having issues with the final grub screw, if I can't shift it is there any way to get the flange off?
When I was asking the question about the size, I was told they are M4 cone grub screws and either 6mm or 8mm long. Bought both lengths in stainless, not tried them yet. Can get cheaply on eBay or any reputable supplier.
I doubt it....not without damaging something...........if it projects enough, maybe a really small pair of mole grips can get a grip on the screw.......??
If there's just one left, you should be able to get the flange out. Use a lever in the filler to work the flange loose and out. I've used the wooden shaft of a mallet in the past. It's easier to get the screw out then or even file it flat and use the 7 remaining if it's solid..... Get some lube under the seal to free the o-ring if it's dry..
Be careful when levering it out............I would be worried the flange ally would break at the grub screw or the lip in the tank will bend........ .....but maybe a gentle leveriing will be enough to loosen the screw.
Urgh, sounds like a pig of a job. I'd pay for it to get done but I'm skint and don't know of a mechanic that I really trust
Lift the flange opposite the seized grub screw.. I've had one out with 2 screws still in there. Providing they're not opposite then the flange should come out
As Nelly says, use a mallet handle through the filler hole as a lever to lift the opposite side to where the remaining grub screw is. If the seal around the unit has been leaking corrosion builds up between the the steel tank aperture sides and alloy assembly. Do plenty of soaking with WD or other release oil?
