My wife gave my my Christmas gift a little early bless her so I can go for a couple of nice long day trips (so probably in her favour then). I got the Gamin Zumo XT, in the box it comes with all the usual gubbins, of which, is the direct to battery power lead with the 12v to 5v converter box along the cable run. At the end, I've crimped on the 2 battery terminal connectors. But before I go about stripping the bike down to run the cable to the battery, I know there is a dedicated GPS cable amongst the LH front fairing. Is it really worth splicing up the cable to get to that connector or has anyone had success just running it from the GPS mount (I've got an Evotech mount) straight along to the battery under the seat? Thank you
I have terminated the Garmin power supply cable with the same plug/socket as my battery tender lead. Losing the power cable (and box) behind bodywork on her 1st gen Diavel was relatively straight forward and she just plugs the lead when she wants to use the Garmin. So quick an easy. The dedicated power supply take off in the loom, should have a plug with a pre wired pig tail to do the same thing. Not having a 1260, I cannot confirm that this take off is behind the left hand fairing similar to my 1200. Andy
I just eyed up the cable length, should be long enough to get to the battery terminal and I'll tuck the voltage conversion box along some of the bike frame. As for unplugging/plugging the cable, I don't intend on ever removing the mount until bike sale. And I fully expect the GPS mount not to drain the battery when not in use... Again, could be wishful thinking but we will see.
@freshage Yes, you can run any device directly off the battery but why would you? You'll run the risk of more parasitic draw.
Not sure I understand the question here... I would want to in order to power the GPS? I doubt the parasitic draw will be anything of concern unless the bike is not used for months on end. If it's of interest, I'll do a multimeter parasitic draw test before and after.
@freshage I was simply suggesting that it may be preferable to run your GPS on a switch-able power lead.
It’s commonly (many different forum discussions) thought that a permanent live, over time, lends to the weather exposed connectors corroding and furring up. I know that was the case with an early Zumo I had. sticky pins on cradles is a common fault so I’d recommend a switched live
I have run my last three Garmins from battery feeds, the arly 550 needed a clean but came with the cover. All others have been no issue over 2/4 year life.
Ideally, yes, but with lockdown here and a trip coming up soon, I've got no access to a soldering iron and don't fancy cutting up the only cable I've got for the GPS right now. I'll likely do it after Christmas however, I doubt I'll see any issues long term. Specially since I've already protected the mount in a dab of ACF-50 to help stave corrosion. That and the bike is kept in an underground garage. Edit: I did do the same direct battery run on my previous 1200S without issue. I'm just curious for the newer model is all.
Plenty of information here: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/satnav-advice.33486/page-8 ...and here: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/multistrada-1260s-swiched-live-for-tom-tom.74103/#post-1578597 The provided cable under the l/h fairing is switched, and a better solution IMO.
What voltage is the cable there? 5v or 12v? If the latter, I'll still need to have the conversion box in line.
Lead under left fairing infill panel is 12v, you still need the inline converter. Far neater using that connection. If you run an optimate or similar then a permenant live feed from the battery would be OK otherwise the dedicated switched feed should be your choice.
Okies, thanks guys for the input. Managed to get an order in for a soldering iron (don't trust my cheapo from the US I have with me on EU sockets with a converter). I'll change over the cables tomorrow with the connector.
The pigtail is a bit of a pig, sorry, to strip back. I used a sharp craft knife to carefully cut back all the protective plastic casing. Here are a few pics. Sorry about the naff quality:
You just need to find the short pig tail connector that comes with the joke, might be plugged in under the left fairing panel. Put this in hot water then pull off the plastic/rubber bit covering the wires, a quick go with your new soldering iron and away you go. The excess wire ticks under the fairing with no problem
We posted at the same time, as I mentioned just put it in hot water for a few minutes and you can pull it off fairly easily (not a euphemism)
