Every test you read ( agains KTM RC8 or Beemer) is stands out that the ride is too harsh to be effecient... However it is never stated in what stand the linkage of the rear susp is in. There is never any refference whether there has been a change in this setting during the test... and what the effect was has anyone any exprience with the different settings and it's impact on road riding? ( Progressive and direct, i guess) tx Koen
Spend thousands of pounds on a bike with adjustable suspension, then be too scared to adjust it... Get the tools out - and a pen and piece of paper - and start twiddling.
i don't have a 1199 ..., yet... but would like to know whether the tests did try it and what the results are from those who did! ...
just done 3500 miles on the tricolore through the Alps and Pyranees, and the stock suspension settings are way too hard for the road! current settings now are a vast improvement, will try to send photo of the setup page on the dash.
has anyone changed the rear shock linkage from fixed to progressive? F to P ? it is meant to smoothen up the rears suspension for road use. From what i read it does make quit some difference... I wonder if all the 'way too hard' test results have adapted the bikes to road use with this tool... this is a main feature but i hear noone talk about or comment on it... just curious Koen
When I picked up mine I asked bout the F - P as Iv heard them coming from the factory in F, but was told they check and change to P. Think its to do with legal stuff that they have to set it up for P ie road, could be wrong but I cant fault my set up to the point that I may not bother having it set up. That said for anyone who wants to play, there is the default button that resets ur fuck up back to factory settings so have a play say in the knowledge that it can be easily rectified
That's absolutely right, if it's not right for you either have a play around yourself or get a professional to set it up for you. If you don't like it you can re-set it to factory settings at the flick of a switch.
That goes for all suspension, not just the electronic stuff. Have a twiddle, you'll not be able to go far enough to make it unsafe, so make big adjustments in each area so that you can feel what's going on.
You've got all that on your bike. The only difference is you need to use a screwdriver to access it, but it ain't hard. Ain't hard at all.
Rode a demo bike which had been put into the race config on the rear end and must say on the whole it felt fantastic but you sure felt the harsh bumps. Got to be the most advanced sports bike available today. Even Neil Hodgson said lots of people have spoke of some bikes been race bikes on the road but the with the Paigale you really can say this. He went on to say how the Panigale really is compatible to the bikes he raced. One other thing I noticed was if I get caught out in the rain on my 1098s I ride it like an old woman. It started raining while I was out on the Panigale but for some reason I did not feel intimidated by it's power etc and felt very confident on it, perhaps this might of been due to the tech? One more observation comparing it to my 1098 is how much more comfortable the Panigale is. Chris.
Has anyone adjusted the rear shock linkage yet? Mine is set on F which sounds like it explains the harsh ride. I assume its a case of undoing the bolt on rod then swapping the F over to P then turning the rose joint out to the new position?
Absolutely, have a fiddle. If you f*** it up, just one quick reset to and you are back to where you were.
You have the rear link set in Flat which is for track use, it will make a big difference putting it to Progressive. In F the ride is much harsher, especially over a big bump such as a pothole. Chris.
My bike came in 'F' mode, and the ride is ball busting firm and I weigh 16 1/2 stone in my pants. I would like to put it in 'P' mode and try it out, but looks like I will have to put her on an abba stand to do this, as I think the rear of the bike may collapse if I tried doing this on a paddock stand. A job for winter.
As above, depending which mode you're in knock the damping settings back. The linkage is either "Flat" or "Progressive". Flat is suggested for track but also for one up riding. Progressive is suggested for two up riding. As a gauge, knock the rider mode into wet and see how it feels. The damping settings are backed right off as default, particularly the rear. If it feels ok/better then transfer those settings into your chosen riding mode. That of course works well enough if you have the S. If not, wind out the compression damping on the rear and a tweak on the rebound. Remember, the spring weight doesn't change...it's the linkage that is affecting how far it's compressed. In progressive, it gets "harder" the more it's squeezed. For one up riding, flat rate and softening off the damping usually works. The settings in srad34's picture are pretty much those used as default in wet mode.
