If anyone has their carbed SS fairing off or they have the frame laying around, can someone take some measurements please? When I got my SS I was aware it had been dropped because the fairing was skewiff and very noticeable when looking from the rear of the screen. I straightened it out roughly at the time but because the screen was a shitty shape it never looked entirely right, so while my mirror was off today, I thought I would try and improve the frame (got a good screen to test it by)..... But I need to confirm what I have done is more or less correct see pics, please. I need the overall dimensions across the parts marked with the red line.
Al, Of course I have the headlight frame laying around - I have every bit of the bike laying around. 90mm x 28mm. The sides have a radius on them as you can even see from your picture so if you want to mount something on the flat surface only with out overhanging the radius then minus 5mm from each dimension, (85 x 23 there done it for you.) Cheers Gaz
Has yours not cracked Al? Both of mine are broken and in need of some welding, another job for the list!!
Sorry Gaz......... I meant the two dims the other way across (across the width of the bike as such). Not broken Lumbux, just one side was bent.
Blimey........mine are 360 at the top and 330 at the bottom................looks like both sides must be bent in....
As yours seemed so far out I thought I'd check mine. Much closer to yours at 336 and 356 ( inner edge to inner edge in line with centre of each mounting hole). Pretty sure mine was fairly straight (allowing for 20 years of bumps and knocks). Mick..
Looks like we need some more figures and investigation. Obviously mine is a '92 but thought front fairings fitted all. Will check front fairing. Cheers Gaz
Offered it up to front fairing, nice fit just a little push nothing at all to bring holes in line. Stand back, scratch head. Cheers Gaz
OK.....Just played with the originally bent left side again..........I lined up the mounting 'plates' by eye looking across the bike to see if they were parallel....left side need a tweak to the plate....... Now got 380 top and 345 bottom.......amazing that such a small amount of 'bend' can make so much difference. Added nose fairing.....well, it looks as though it has managed to get used to being wrong, but I think it will be OK now..... .....bloody great ring spanner bends the bars easy enough, but it marks them. Thank all...........Now got to find a mirror base (or a left mirror complete......or a pair).
If it wasn't for the fact that the left mirror mount finally gave way and I took it off, I wouldn't have looked at the damn frame again......
My frame is slightly out, I have in the past bought others which are equally as bad, they are prone to cracking and I have just got one which appears to be ok, it's still been repaired at some point though. Hopefully I can get rid of the gaps in fairing
The trouble is, when it's on the bike, it is damned hard to work out if it's 'straight' or not..... Firstly, if you can get the bike level.......which isn't easy.........then sticking a level across the frame is misleading, because although it appears to be level, if you then view the damn level through to other parts of the bike, it seems 'out' (or the bike is). Then there is the dash and clocks in the way, so a straightedge can't be got across the bottom flanges of the mounts in question. Also, the brake master cylinder is taller than the clutch one, so when viewing the bike either from front or back, the frame seems 'out' again. Eyeing across the bike the flange mounts should be parallel, but you can't see the uprights to check them because of the dash. The only way I could check mine was on the basis that the right side had not been bent, but the left had......so I stuck straightedges along the flange mounts and measured the distance where they crossed the vertical headlight frame tubes. FYI that's about 30mm IIRC.
They are a straight as I think they are going to be......Now got 380 top and about 345 bottom. (bottom is hard to measure accurately) but if I altered mine to what Gaz has (382 / 352 to inner most edge obviously on centre) I think the extra 2mm at the top might get the bottom nearer to 350.
