Headstock lift paddock stands

Discussion in 'Clothing, Gadgets & Equipment' started by funkatronic, Oct 25, 2012.

  1. Hi all

    thinking of buying headstock lift paddock stand for my 998s (with ohlins bottom yoke) and monster s2r so i can pay wth forks more easily

    there are loads on fleabay but id like one thats solid and will last and preferably with removeable pins so i can swicth it between bikes

    also want one that wont foul r & g fork protectors in normal use

    anyone have one that works well? any to avoid?

    was thinking harris but they dont seem to make one for ducati's
     
  2. Is there a hole in the bottom yoke where the stem is? If not the pin type is nfg.
     
  3. yep hole in the ohlins bottom yoke and on the monster although they are diff sizes
     
  4. And if you do use a headstock stand, how would you do your headstock bearings?

    AL
     
  5. tbh if the bearings needs replacing then id take it to someone more skilled than i am

    its primariily in case i need to drop the forks out (eg to get the seals fixed /replace oil)
     
  6. be good to find one that does not foul the axle nut too (as many of the head lift stands i have seen seem to do)
     
  7. If you have the gap needed between the airbox, frame and headstock, you can make your own stand for about £10 and you can do everything....

    Here's my front one.....

    Stand.jpg
     
  8. Invest in an abba stand and then jack the front up from behind the front exhaust. Does the job of front and rear, a lot easier and more secure.
     
  9. have an abba stand already where do you use as a jack point, tried using the under sump but not stable enough at all tbh
     
  10. I've had the FS11 for a couple of years now,not cheap but a great piece of kit that will fit just about any bike out there.
     
  11. I've got one of these, as said above works fine and there are many pins with it (including a plate to use on headstocks without a hole) but not one big enough to fit an Ohlins yoke, however find the correct OD socket (13/16" in my case) and push it over the 12mm pin and it's fine for my Ohlins front 916.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. thanks for replies all, even though its a more money than the stfl, i think i will probably go with the fs 11 (the are branded and sold by probike in the uk) as it comes with the correct pin from the box (27mm i think) and it loks like it will take a bit more of a the abuse it wil get in the back of a van between track days

    final edition, can you get the wheel nut off with a socket on the 998 when the bike is on the stand? or do you have to loosen the nut when bike is off the stand first?
     
    #14 funkatronic, Oct 26, 2012
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2012
  13. I've got a Probike. Top bit of kit as you can leave the bike on the stand for some time without any worries and its very sturdy.

    If it's the front wheel nut you want to loosen it can be done with the wheel off the floor.
     
  14. Front wheel torque is 63Nm iirc. I always slacken/tighten wheel nuts (front or rear) when bike is on the floor.
     
    #16 deleteduser211220, Oct 26, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 26, 2012
  15. yes, it's a lot safer to do it with the rear stand on, but the front off.

    Another +1 for Probike. Very good kit. I got my first with a bike I bought and was very impressed with the quality and sturdiness. Price isn't outrageous either. The only small drawback to the under-headstock stand is the length of the insert as it goes into the hole - it's too long and makes getting the stand into position a little more difficult than it should be. 2 minutes in a lathe tho...
     
  16. do either of you use r&g fork protectors? if could you meaure how much space there is between the axle and the edge of the stand so i can check it fits
     
  17. There's loads of space. I'll go out and measure now.
     

  18. I would remove these first, as you need to, to undo the spindle nut.
     
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