1200 Heated Grip Wiring

The connectors are under the front of the tank.
To get to them you need to remove the panels, then the tank.
Behind the headstock and steering lock is a cross member in the trellis frame. Clipped to this is the loom, and a whole bunch of connectors in a big rubber shroud.

It sounds worse than it is. If you've never removed all the panels and tank before send me a PM and I will give you more detailed instructions

Hope that helps.

 

How did you get on ? Mine are not working just now. Was going to check the continuity on the grip itself and then the resistance to see what I've got. Would be good if you could share. Not wanting to splash out +£200 for a new set of its a quick fix.

 

Just whip the panels off between the ignition and the tank and you should see them - at a push you may need to remove the tank panels but you don't need to remove the tank!![emoji15]


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To get the tank central panel off you need to remove the sides first to expose the fasteners.
On both of my pre sky hook bikes it was necessary to remove the tank to expose the wiring, As the connectors were inside the rubber boot that is tie wrapped to the frame. The left side cable was also tie wrapped to plastic saddles in more than one place.
If you didn't, either I was unlucky twice, or you were lucky, or someone had already been at your wiring and not put them back in the boot and ties

 

What reading did you get on testing the cables or was it just a physical check to make sure they were connected.
I would expect to be a resistance reading.
I'm going to pull mine apart tomorrow and see where I go from there.

 

Hi, I wasn't changing the grips, so didn't check their resistance.
You are correct, they are just heating elements. The mts applies a different voltage depending on what setting you use. It's software controlled, so once you get to the plugs you could go through the 3 settings and determine what the voltages are that it's using
My heated grips packed up on my last trip, and will be replaced under warranty in a couple of weeks. I will ask if they can tell me the resistance of the new and old ones.

 

I don't know if the resistance is different on the newer grips but the ones on my 2010 measure 7.5Ω each.
I suspect the heat is probably controlled by varying the on/off mark space ratio.

 

Hi Derek,
They may have changed the resistance when they changed the design, I don't know for sure.
I thought it was a controlled voltage, but not had a scope on the output so it could be pulse width. It would be good to know for sure.
I know they modified thè voltage applied in software a couple of years in an effort to stop all the claims for failed grips. Now they aren't hot enough :grin:

 

Took them apart today and tested.
I rolled back the grip to get access to the connections.
The throttle side was around 7.4ohms and the other side was open circuit. I'd tested this before with just a basic continuity tester and both were fine but when I tested today 1 was open circuit through the heating element.
Gave the element a good visual check and couldn't see any burnt/broken area.
Was surprised to see it was actually what looked to be a sticker with the element circuit impregnated onto it.
Tried to close the circuit by creating a cable loop but wouldn't allow the other side to heat. but suspect as the resistance wasn't quite right the controller wouldn't switch the circuit on. Looks like it's a call to Ducati to plead again and see if I can get it sorted otherwise it's hand in the pocket time again.

 

Others on here have had some joy simply soldering any old heated grips onto the Ducati wiring. That way they still work through the onboard method rather than an extra dial.


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They sound like the same or at kesst similar as the ktm heated elements. It's a printed element wrapped around the bar, and then the grip over the top.

I wonder if you put say a 1k resistor in parallel with the element, whether this would be good enough to make the controller see continuity and apply voltage to the working grip.
Hmm, might go try that later...

 

Why go to all that effort to get one grip working when you could just try some aftermarkets. Are KTM's cheaper as, like you say, they could be very similar.

 

Re aftermarket grips...I test drove an s1000r last year and the heated grips were shit...2 settings and the 2nd one was no where near good enough (in April) so if theyre as shit as BMW's then oxford grips all the way...!

 

JH, what I'm thinking is that one going open circuit switches them off. If the resistors still keep one working, at least we could diagnose which one to replace, and of course still have 1 warm hand if away on a trip or until they are replaced

Here is a link to a pic of the grip elements sold for the ktm off road bikes. The road bikes have moulded grips I think (and fail just like the ducati ones). Top of page 35.
KTM PowerParts Offroad Catalog 2016 English / Espanol by KTM Sportmotorcycle GmbH - issuu

 

1 warm hand... That would bug the tits out of me and i'd end up trying to ride cross-armed to even out the warmth...

OFFICER: "and how was it you lost control sir"
ME: Ummmm....
:tearsofjoy:

 

The KTM ones look just like these £3.99 jobs from China on eBay. I fitted a pair on my ST4s a few years ago and they worked very well actually.

 

From an engineers point of view I would prefer to know what's failed.
You can always turntable off if it bugs you :smiley::smile::smiley::smile::smiley:

 

They do look similar Derek, but wider tracks.
They work great on my ktm