Hi everyone, just after a bit of advice here really as only had my Multi for a few weeks. After a cold start the tick over is fine (about 1000rpm) until I ride away, then as soon as I roll off the throttle when i pull up to a junction its ticking over at about 2000-2500rpm. This seems to last for about the first 5 minutes of riding and then it eventually settles back down to what I'd call a normal tick over. It's also a pain as during those first few minutes when the engine sits at a high rpm pulling up to junctions or flowing through traffic can be interesting as I'm always feathering the clutch. Might just be a big twin thing but hey you don't ask you don't find out. Thanks
A good point, well put. I cant help, but I know what you mean as mine does the same. I'm sure someone will know the answer, cus it is a little annoying.
I've not experienced this but some of my mates have (2010 bikes). 2k5 seems high as theirs were only at about 1800. The dealer told them its the ecu trying to ensure the engine doesn't stall when still cold and you approach junctions. They had something adjusted that made it better, but it didn't get rid of it completely. It might therefore be worth having a chat with your dealers.
Thanks John will do that when I get the chance, mine is a 2012 bike but it just doesn't feel right to be ticking over so high and slipping the clutch. The only thing that makes me question the cold start is that even after the coolant temp has risen to about 75 degrees it still ticks over at the high rpm for a while. But at this point I don't know the bike well enough to make any conclusions. I just read the thread on the ride by wire throttle sensors and wondered if the closed throttle sensor might need adjusting / re calibrating, guess the dealer will sort it anyway.
Your right, that is not right...? 2500 rpm on a big 1200 twin is a fair amount of power to be slipping the clutch all the time, the clutch will be toast nxt! Mine is a 2010 but it doesn't do that There is a air bleed screw on each cylinder which can be adjusted for a better idle, but this would alter the idle when the bike is up to operating temperature and you say it idles ok when off warm up..? If its a 2012 bike still under warranty I would take it to your dealer and have them check it out for you..
Mmm, thanks Boomer. I was just thinking back to when I first picked up the bike and I'm pretty sure it didn't do this high tick over for my first couple of rides, but something is nagging in the back of my mind that it might have started when I was making a U-turn and when I put the bike towards full lock the RPM went up until I straightened up again. I might be confusing myself (which ain't difficult) but was thinking if I may have upset the throttle cable during the tight turn? Still doesn't explain why it would settle back down again after a few minutes, and also I haven't done any real hot starts after a run to see if there is anything happening then.
I've an 2012 Mutley and mine does the same. You just need to let it warm up properly before moving off. As a guide wait until the temperature gauge starts to register a figure i.e not 'low' then by the time you've put you gloves on you'll find it's okay. Letting it warm up first makes it less grumpy for the first few miles.
+1 did exactly the same, let the temp gauge register a figure and not low, probably just takes a little longer as we are in the depths of winter
Just a thought - what petrol are you guys using ? 95 or 98, esso/shell/bp/etc or supermarket ? Maybe try a tank or two of 98, see if it improves it at all. Just seems odd that it doesn't do it to start with Wellsy, so maybe the ecu is trying to adapt to the crappy fuel or something...
Bit of an update, I did the whole get the bike started then put my helmet and gloves on routine, I had to wait about another minute before a temp registered on the display - and then off I went. Overall I have to say it was much better, still a bit of high rpm stuff (2000) but for a much more easy to live with time. I was thinking about the fuel thing as well and may put a couple of tanks of the premium stuff through her and see if that improves things at all.... I'll let you know. Thanks for all your help and advice so far, much appreciated
I am pretty sure it's a software thing which your dealer can easily sort out. Mine started doing it although it was only going up to around 2500rpm but still seemed very high. I mentioned it when I took the bike in for a service recently and I believe they performed a little witchcraft with the electrics and cured it. Hope this helps... Chris.
Hi Columbus, to be honest I can’t quite remember as I sold the bike a couple of years ago now. However I did run that bike for a long time and I’m sure the problem went away by adjusting the throttle cable position. Sorry I can’t be any more helpful.
I've just solved my high tickover and it's totally smoothed out the whole bike in the lower rev range. Basically I closed the Air bleed screw on the front cylinder then balanced the rear using the Tuneboy throttle body balancing tool ( you can get manual balancing tools) then reset the throttle position sensors and its now all sorted
